Six-Gun by My Side 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Louie Anderson and Bob Bealle, March 1990 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2002 |
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Six-Gun by My Side (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP
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Description This is the next bolted route left of Party in the Desert and offers quality slab climbing with generally good protection. Two starts exist for this route - the recommended start is via a thinning crack (pro to 1.25") that climbs directly to the second bolt, while the alternative (and original) start passes a solitary bolt right of the crack and involves contrived moves up and left to join the second bolt. The crux comes at the fourth bolt as you mantle a tiny shelf (optional 0.5" cam here) and then make delicate moves past it. Higher more friction moves lead up to a bolted anchor. Fun moves on good rock that will test your footwork and nerves, albeit safely. One star out of five, but add a star for the direct (crack) start.
Protection 5 bolts, optional pro to 3", bolted anchor/rap
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Corral Wall -- shows routes from Chuc...
| Six Gun by My Side
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| Comments on Six-Gun by My Side |
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By Woody Stark Nov 25, 2003 rating: 5.10b
| I've led this route a number of times; it's sustained, challenging and harder than 10a. It's one of my favorite routes on "Corral Wall". |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jan 16, 2005 rating: 5.10a
| Single move of 10a if you approach from directly below the bolts. Maybe 1 move a little harder if you climb in from the right, as the line of bolts would imply is intended. But I don't get it...The direct line looks natural and well, direct. The traverse in seems contrived and unneccessary. As well, it's no easier. Maybe it was placed to give an "all sport" option while not placing a bolt by a servicable gear placement? |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Jan 22, 2007 rating: 5.10a
| Bartlett guide for Indian Cove suggests you can skip the first bolt. If coming up from the left that seems reasonable. I went up on the right and wouldn't consider skipping it. Second bolt difficult to clip. Upper section which looks steep provides good edges and smearing. Fun. |
By attila Feb 20, 2010
| This is a very satisfying route. Perhaps this is overlooked because the climb next door is considered the classic of the crag; this one shouldn't be missed. Beautiful setting, good edgy moves, and it's even comfortable belaying from the anchor. Short climbers may want to pass on leading this one, as some clipping stances will be very difficult. |
By mmurduff Jan 11, 2013 rating: 5.10a
| Felt to me every bit of 5.10a. Extremely enjoyable smearing, pinches, crimpers and plenty of high stepping with the mantle move up top. Direct start wasn't ever an option, just followed the bolts (bolt number 2 seems odd, but makes sense when you see the rope-line together). |
By MikeP ROWCC Feb 19, 2013 rating: 5.10a
| Very nice "sport" route. Got my heart pumping in the middle when I pressud up on a small edge and almost peeled off backwards. The bolts are wierd down low and had to make a sketchy move across the face to clip the bolt. |
By Rob M Mar 11, 2013
| Really enjoyed this route. Couple of good technical moves around second bolt. A little spicy first time, dials in quickly though on repeat. |
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