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Little Joe
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Exsqueeze Me TR 
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Six Flavors T 

Six Flavors 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nick Nordblom, et al
Page Views: 344
Submitted By: Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 27, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: 'Six Flavors'

Description 

Six Flavors is a fun route following a clean crack system to the top of the Little Joe formation. The rock is the good varnished stuff and the climb runs through the full range of crack sizes in its short length- fingers through squeeze chimney (although you can exit onto face to avoid the latter). Note: there is a loose chockstone in a wide crack about halfway up, but it won't come out. I lowered in afterwards and tried, and I'm confident you won't be able to yard it out onto your belayer. It felt like there was some 5.10 in there, but who knows.

Location 

The route is on the frontside of the Little Joe formation, in a big varnished right-facing corner that looks out onto Cat in the Hat. Belay off hand-sized cams at the top, and walk to the rappel anchor above the bolted climb to get off.

Protection 

Bring a yellow alien and offwidth cams (a new-style camalot 4, 5, and 6 were great). doubles from white alien to #3. its probably not worth bringing nuts. bring an extra small cam or two if you think you might want them. the pro is all splitter.


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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Apr 28, 2007

5.10b/c.

You don't really need big gear and I'd like to see the person that could get inside that thing and climb! Defiantly NOT a Squeeze chimney...arm bars.