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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Sitting in Limbo 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dan Michael 1990
Page Views: 2,650
Submitted By: M on May 24, 2005
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Matt on TR working for the redpoint, here at the c...


The routes starts off decently with a semi-lieback and a bit of a reach to the horizontal crack, then hike your feet up on the thin nothingness and get ready for hell, stretch for the mono, crank hard and you might end up at the top, the route gets easier after the crux, only one or two more monos and some fancy footwork and you're at anchors. A very powerful yet elegant route. Try it.


A sequential, excellent line up a thin crack system protected by 7 bolts to anchors just left of Cassandra. Currently the canyon's hardest route.

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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Apr 17, 2006

Well it's all downhill from here.... I finally sent this thing yesterday!

It's an outstanding route. The rock is immaculate and the climbing is very interesting. To say it is technical, is an understatement. I did about 50 moves to get to the 4th bolt which is only about 30 feet up! Remembering it all is a great challenge. Furthermore, it is one of the more sustained routes I've done in the canyon; the redpoint is in doubt until you clip the last bolt. My only complaint is that it is hell on your fingertips!

Polish your footwork, train you mono strength, then give this a run.

By Ian Spencer-Green
Jul 17, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Sitting in Limbo is one awesome technical route. I remember it being certainly one of the most intricate routes I have ever done. As Mike said, it is not over till you clip the anchors. The story of my send was pretty funny. After two days and four or five tries, I finally pulled through the heinous mono-crux, only to find I should of worked the top a little better. As I cranked the upper 5.11 layback moves I was so pumped and afraid of falling (because I'd have to repeat the tweaky bottom again) I started shaking violently. Somehow I held on and pulled through, primarily from the motivation of not having to repeat the bottom section! Great route. I highly recommend it for any climber that is up to the grade! Personally, I didn't think the grade could be harder than 13b.