Sitting Here in Limbo 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Rhoads, Kellie Rhoads & Mike Silitch, 1991 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Dec 27, 2002 |
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First clip on SHIL
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Description This route lies on the right-most (east) solid buttress of the South Face of the Echo Cove Rocks. It is approached via a few slab moves to a small ledge, and begins just left of Out on a Limb and just right of a scaley wide crack.Climb this line of bolts on contoured face to the top of the buttress. The crux is somewhere near the middle of the route and is on small holds.
The belay up top is well set with large cams and/or hexes and small tricams. There are other possibilities too.
To descend, walk/scramble off to the climber's right (east) then south by a big "potato-chip" looking boulder, and the back West toward the base.
Protection 5 bolts, gear to 3" for an anchor
Mary after pulling the bouldery start. Now for th...
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Mary working out the sequence up high.
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Working the thin holds.
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Favorite move.
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knee-bar
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| Comments on Sitting Here in Limbo |
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By Shano
Jan 21, 2003
| If someone wanted to go to the trouble of drilling this route, why couldn't they throw in two more rap rings/hangers for the anchor? No big deal - I guess I'm just spoiled by the bolted routes in my area :') BTW - as of Jan '03 the bottom clip was a spinner. Hang on ! |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 22, 2003
| AZ question I have given some consideration. Perhaps it is beacuse there are previous routes here with walkoffs that are required for the descent and that adding an anchor nearby changes the nature of the previous route? Maybe to keep the routes from constantly haveing a TR hanging on them? I dunno, but I'd like to.There are almost always arguements that can be had on either side of an issue when someone wants to rationalize their convienent point of view, whatever that may be. |
By Murf
Jan 23, 2003
| You guys are so right! All the popular routes should have ORG style bolts at the top. Clip and lower!
Yeah, you guessed it, I'm one of "those guys", willing to talk about, and chop convience anchors. Why aren't more of the anchors gone you ask? Well, I might not know about them, or I might have some modicum of moderation. |
By Murf
Jan 23, 2003
| And continues, and continues.... for the last 20 ( or is it 30 ) years and more. |
By Shano
Feb 7, 2003
| Wow - didn't realize I'd be opening a can of worms with that one. Thanks for the responses though. Very different set of politics which occurs in our beloved sport...The reason I originally asked though was that it was getting dark by the time we got three people up top and the walk off was a little sketchy in the dark. Our own fault for being up there that late but it did seem odd that with all the hangers the FA would have put in a rap anchor. As for the ethics, I'll let "those others" debate it. I'm just one of those weekend warriors that goes out and has fun on all the routes I can get my grubby scabby hands on. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 20, 2006
rating: 5.9+
| Anyway, a fun route. |
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| Definitely solid 5.9 and fun for the grade. I think I remember the crux being the final move at the top. |
By Chris Asencio
From: Hesperia, CA
Jan 22, 2012
| Really fun route. Had some wind and dirt in the eyes, but still worth the effort. Thought it was sport till the top out, lol. |
By Dave Chapman
From: The LBC
Jan 23, 2013
rating: 5.9
| Cool route, which never used to have a line considering its well bolted and so close to the road. Very balancy. While your up there toprope the .10c to the right, also a fun one. |
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