Sitting Duck Tower - It's all a Farce  5.8 C2 R

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 260 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.8 C2 [details] FA:  Ben Folsom, Maura Hahnenberger Nov. 4th 2007 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Ben Folsom on Nov 6, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The South Face of Sitting Duck. Its All A Farce c...

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Description 

The route climbs the obvious crack system in the center of the south face.

Pitch 1- C2 climbing passing two bolts to avoid loose rock leads to C1 climbing in a gradually widening crack. When the crack gets too wide for gear, a nine bolt ladder leads to a 5.8 chimney to a two bolt hanging belay on a small stance. 5.8 C2 200ft.

Pitch 2- A 5.8 runout left then up leads to a ledge. Continue up passing two more bolts and a short section of C2 to the summit and a two bolt belay/rappel anchor.

To descend, rappel the route.

Location 

This tower is located near Swaseys Secret. From the turnoff to Swaseys Cabing from the Rods Valley Road, go south for 1 mile to a road on the right. Drive west on this road for 0.4 miles to the parking area at the end of the road. The tower is just north of the parking area. Walk up to the base (about 5 minutes from the car).

Protection 

Three sets of cams to #4 camalots and 2 #4.5 and #5 camalots. (Those are the old sizes) Expect to do some leapfrogging. Stoppers (or rivet hangers) for four hangerless bolts.