Mountain Project: Climbing New Mexico, other Southern Areas

Few crowds and prevelant shade. This area can be super cold in the Winter. Watch for the killer bee hive between the Brit Route and Fire Water. 5$ per car day use fee.

Getting There

From Carlsbad, 8 miles out of town to the west on 285, take 137 South for about 25-30 miles. Follow the sign to the Sitting Bull Falls area and park. Follow the paved path about 150 yards and take a major right on an unpaved path up to the top of the falls for about 300 yards, up even with the falls, look for small trails to the right over to the climbing area.

ADMIN EDIT:The turn off of 137 for Sitting Bull is not as far as the signs indicate, the turn off is just before MM31 and after MM32 if coming from HWY 285.

Park Conditions

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sitting Bull Falls:

Wounded Knee 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Rose Bud Wall

Firewater 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Rose Bud Wall

Smoke Signals 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Big Horn Wall

Sweat Lodge 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Rose Bud Wall

Ghost Dancers Extension 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet Big Horn Wall

Ghost Dancers 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Big Horn Wall

Counting Coup 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Big Horn Wall

It is not Necessary for Eagles to be Crows 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Big Horn Wall

Tribal War 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Big Horn Wall

Broken Arrows 5.12d Sport, 60 feet Big Horn Wall

Custer's Last Stand 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Big Horn Wall

Kootenai Cruiser 5.13d Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Big Horn Wall

Featured Route For Sitting Bull Falls

Moving up into the crux. Photo by Matt Moore

Kootenai Cruiser 5.13d NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : ... : Big Horn Wall

This is the second route from the right and starts off the high point of the slab at the base of the wall and heads up and left, Custer's Last Stand heads up and right.Make long moves right from the start on holds that are somehow not as good as on the other routes. An awkward sequence leads up into the bulge and a kneebar to get over to a good pocket. Take a deep breath and move up on some smaller holds, the left of which will eat your finger tips for lunch. A big move to a small but positive h...[more] Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Sitting Bull Falls

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By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 31, 2010

Could someone please comment on the closures specified in the new photos added above. I have not yet climbed at Sitting Bull so am not familiar with the area. The date of the order says 2002 so this could not be new. I am assuming this does not mean that the standard areas people are currently climbing at are "closed". Either that or it is not enforced since I hear about folks climbing at Sitting bull all the time.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 31, 2010

The current cliffs that are developed for climbing are not within the closure area. The closed area and bolting ban only affects the surrounding undeveloped cliffs. I've been there twice this season and the rangers were friendly and enthusiastic towards climbers.

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 1, 2010

Thanks Dude! I figured that, I just wanted to make sure since I had heard nothing about any closures of main climbing areas.

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
May 23, 2011

Closed! Fire damage this spring has the park closed completely. Not sure if they will permit climbing here once the park re-opens.

By Matt Mueller
Jul 6, 2011

Sorry to report that the "Last Chance" fire burned over the Sitting Bull Falls area. So the FS has closed the area until apx 6/12 for regrowth to prevent erosion from hikers and to rebuild burned down structures. My apologies as I'm a firefighter in the Pecos district though I was out of district stopping TX fires durring the incident.

By skitch
From: Heaven
Nov 16, 2011

Is there any other climbing in the area? You can E-mail me at scotteagan@hotmail.com if you need to keep it on the down-low.

By Chris Archer
Sep 24, 2012

We are thinking about a trip to Sitting Bull and Last Chance. Are both areas open after the fire? Also wondering what the best season is, if you need a high clearance vehicle to access the cliffs, and where the closest place to stay is. Any beta would be most appreciated.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Dec 4, 2012

This is an AWESOME little crag. Go there

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Sitting Bull Falls

Description

Getting There

Park Conditions

The Classics