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Sitting Bull Falls
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Big Horn Wall 
Rose Bud Wall 

Sitting Bull Falls 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,700'
Lat, Long: 32.2452, -104.696 Map
Page Views: 33,069. Good page?   
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Aug 30, 2006

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Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Chance of a Thunderstorm
88° | 63°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
90° | 63°
Clear
99° | 63°
Partly Cloudy
95° | 63°
Partly Cloudy
93° | 59°

Fall colors in nearby (relatively) Dog Canyon, Gua...

Description 

Few crowds and prevelant shade. This area can be super cold in the Winter. Watch for the killer bee hive between the Brit Route and Fire Water. 5$ per car day use fee.


Getting There 

From Carlsbad, 8 miles out of town to the west on 285, take 137 South for about 25-30 miles. Follow the sign to the Sitting Bull Falls area and park. Follow the paved path about 150 yards and take a major right on an unpaved path up to the top of the falls for about 300 yards, up even with the falls, look for small trails to the right over to the climbing area.

ADMIN EDIT:The turn off of 137 for Sitting Bull is not as far as the signs indicate, the turn off is just before MM31 and after MM32 if coming from HWY 285.


Park Conditions 

Lincoln National Forrest Conditions


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sitting Bull Falls:
Wounded Knee   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Rose Bud Wall
Firewater   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Rose Bud Wall
Smoke Signals   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Big Horn Wall
Sweat Lodge   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Rose Bud Wall
Ghost Dancers Extension   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Big Horn Wall
Ghost Dancers   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Big Horn Wall
Counting Coup   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Big Horn Wall
It is not Necessary for Eagles to be Crows   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Big Horn Wall
Tribal War   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Big Horn Wall
Broken Arrows   5.12d     Sport, 60 feet   Big Horn Wall
Custer's Last Stand   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Big Horn Wall
Kootenai Cruiser   5.13d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Big Horn Wall
Browse More Classics in Sitting Bull Falls

Featured Route For Sitting Bull Falls
Some of the steepness on Firewater.  Underclings are a common phenomenon on the Rosebud Wall.

Firewater 5.10b  NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : ... : Rose Bud Wall
I think this is the easiest route on the wall although Wounded Knee is rated lower. Crux is low above the 2nd bolt. Look for the many rests and plan to fight the pump up at the finish. Watch for the Killer Bee hive to your left....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of Sitting Bull Falls Slideshow Add Photo
View from the picnic area of the Big Horn Wall

View from the picnic area of the Big Horn Wall

Map of Closures

BETA PHOTO: Map of Closures

Order of Closure

BETA PHOTO: Order of Closure

Approach to Sitting Bull Falls

Approach to Sitting Bull Falls


Comments on Sitting Bull Falls Add Comment
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By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 31, 2010

Could someone please comment on the closures specified in the new photos added above. I have not yet climbed at Sitting Bull so am not familiar with the area. The date of the order says 2002 so this could not be new. I am assuming this does not mean that the standard areas people are currently climbing at are "closed". Either that or it is not enforced since I hear about folks climbing at Sitting bull all the time.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 31, 2010

The current cliffs that are developed for climbing are not within the closure area. The closed area and bolting ban only affects the surrounding undeveloped cliffs. I've been there twice this season and the rangers were friendly and enthusiastic towards climbers.

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 1, 2010

Thanks Dude! I figured that, I just wanted to make sure since I had heard nothing about any closures of main climbing areas.

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
May 23, 2011

Closed! Fire damage this spring has the park closed completely. Not sure if they will permit climbing here once the park re-opens.

By Matt Mueller
Jul 6, 2011

Sorry to report that the "Last Chance" fire burned over the Sitting Bull Falls area. So the FS has closed the area until apx 6/12 for regrowth to prevent erosion from hikers and to rebuild burned down structures. My apologies as I'm a firefighter in the Pecos district though I was out of district stopping TX fires durring the incident.

By skitch
From: Heaven
Nov 16, 2011

Is there any other climbing in the area? You can E-mail me at scotteagan@hotmail.com if you need to keep it on the down-low.

By Chris Archer
Sep 24, 2012

We are thinking about a trip to Sitting Bull and Last Chance. Are both areas open after the fire? Also wondering what the best season is, if you need a high clearance vehicle to access the cliffs, and where the closest place to stay is. Any beta would be most appreciated.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Dec 4, 2012

This is an AWESOME little crag. Go there