|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||FA-Jimmy Dunn and Doug Snively, 1973. FFA-Jeff Achey and Chip Chace, 1981.|
|Submitted By:||Ben Kiessel on Mar 30, 2007|
|Comments on Sisyphus||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Kiessel
Mar 30, 2007
Check out Brad's website for a trip report and great photos.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 8, 2007
I would call this one of the best tower routes I've done. THe climbing is engaging and thought provoking. However, it could be given the R rating in a number of places. If you find the first pitch a bit heady, you might want to bail. It gets more dangerous as you go higher.
We accidently ran the second and third pitches together as I never found the bolted belay mentioned in the description...it's probably my fault as I do this a lot. Anyway, using lots of runners I was able to mitigate the rope drag. I did have to unclip the crux piece at my foot after doing the big move (it's a reach).
The ledge you would hit in the crux is more of a big sloping stance than a square cut ledge. If you jumped out, you might miss it.
The gear list here is perfect, but bring lots of runners.
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Apr 23, 2012
|There are 2 fixed nuts and a knot (double overhand I reckon) for the first pitch belay although yellow aliens are still a good idea to back these up. gets pretty thin off that belay|
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
|The gear beta is way off when it comes to the #1 through #3 Camalots, you only need one of each no matter what your climbing ability is and the 3.5 isn't needed either. An extra Blue Alien wouldn't be a bad idea though. I also wouldn't give any of the pitches an R rating, especially the 3rd. Finally it is possible to rap off with one rope but I would bring some webbing to back up the anchors.|
From: moab, utah
Oct 22, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
|I'd second everything Steven said regarding gear, but I found the R rating was justified on the final pitch; if you fall doing the crux move you'll most likely hit the ledge, you probably wouldn't be seriously hurt but there you go. For those up to the challenge this is one of the great tower routes in the Moab area!|