|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||FA-Jimmy Dunn and Doug Snively, 1973. FFA-Jeff Achey and Chip Chace, 1981.|
|Submitted By:||Ben Kiessel on Mar 30, 2007|
|Comments on Sisyphus||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Kiessel
Mar 30, 2007
Check out Brad's website for a trip report and great photos.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 8, 2007
I would call this one of the best tower routes I've done. THe climbing is engaging and thought provoking. However, it could be given the R rating in a number of places. If you find the first pitch a bit heady, you might want to bail. It gets more dangerous as you go higher.
We accidently ran the second and third pitches together as I never found the bolted belay mentioned in the description...it's probably my fault as I do this a lot. Anyway, using lots of runners I was able to mitigate the rope drag. I did have to unclip the crux piece at my foot after doing the big move (it's a reach).
The ledge you would hit in the crux is more of a big sloping stance than a square cut ledge. If you jumped out, you might miss it.
The gear list here is perfect, but bring lots of runners.
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Apr 23, 2012
|There are 2 fixed nuts and a knot (double overhand I reckon) for the first pitch belay although yellow aliens are still a good idea to back these up. gets pretty thin off that belay|
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
|The gear beta is way off when it comes to the #1 through #3 Camalots, you only need one of each no matter what your climbing ability is and the 3.5 isn't needed either. An extra Blue Alien wouldn't be a bad idea though. I also wouldn't give any of the pitches an R rating, especially the 3rd. Finally it is possible to rap off with one rope but I would bring some webbing to back up the anchors.|