Sister Moon  5.11b R

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  John Kear and Carolyn Parker September 2007 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  John Kear on Nov 28, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

New Route on the Wildflower Wall.
Begin about 25ft right of Wildflower at a short steep wall leading to a fist/ow splitter. Climb the crack which eventually narrows to fingers to the top of the pillar. From the ledge atop the pillar climb the nice face above past a bolt climbing slightly up and right. The pitch ends at the wildflower anchors 100+ ft up, 5.10a. Pitch two climbs up and right over increasingly easy ground past blocky ledges and up to a bolted belay just left of a nice L facing corner, 5.6. Pitch 3 climbs the corner to a roof, surmount the roof and continue to a ledge. Climb the clean face trending up and right past a thank gawd horizontal pro placement and up past a bolt. More easy terrain leads to the bolted belay 5.10c. The last pitch originally went up and right to a thin crack/weakness at 5.10. On the second ascent we discovered a very nice direct line straight up the headwall past a couple of bolts then leading to a ledge where the original line joins, then continue up to the anchor, 5.11b (for the direct line).

Location 

The route is located just right of Wildflower on the Wildflower Wall. It starts under a splitter wide crack on a pillar. Rappelling in from the top is the best approach. From about 100 ft short of the the top of the Watchtower scramble down to the northwest to a fixed line leading down exposed ledges to the top anchor. The route can be rappelled with a single 70m rope (you'll need every inch of a 70). This is the new rappel route into the Wildflower area.

Protection 

Standard Sandia rack to 3-4", there is one bolt on P1, 1 bolt on P3, and two bolts on the direct finish. All anchors are bolted and this is the new rappel approach for the Wildflower Wall.

Photos of Sister Moon Slideshow

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Climbing the beautiful corner on pitch 3.	Marc Ripperger on pitch 1, fists to fingers.	Matt Barela pulling the crux of the direct 4th pit...