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Year of the Dragon 

Sissyboyz-8 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Robert Flaugher, Tom Weaver, Bill Clinch 1994
Page Views: 1,604
Submitted By: Desicon on Mar 5, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Desicon moving through the "side-cling/ lieback" a...

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Description 

Ridgeline Route #2 "Sissy Boyz-8" (E. Fazio-Rhicard book rating 5.8; my tentative rating, 5.8+ to 5.9)

I have seen more leader falls on this climb than any other on the Ridgeline. It may be that the name of the route, and the book rating, give a number of "onsight" leaders a false sense of security here. This climb is not, in my opinion, a mere 5.8. If the "roof" crux on "Sudden Impact" is a true 5.8+, then the overhang on "Sissyboyz-8" should probably be listed as 5.9a, maybe even 5.9b (for onsight leaders).

The sequence, between the second and third bolts (for intermediate leaders), requires precision placement of the feet, "difficult" transition moves towards/through a semi-lieback position, and then some quick decision-making skills -- hanging about under the bulge is not recommended. The right-hand, controlling-holds for this sequence are thin and sharp and not particularly obvious. But once you stabilize yourself on the sloping platform at bolt #2, you should have some time to clip bolt #3 and then feel about for the next set of holds.

Pulling the next moves to lift yourself past bolt #3 constitutes the actual crux of this climb, and some intermediate leaders may find themselves running out of upper-body endurance at this point.

The most frequently used set of holds (on and above the crux overhang itself) present the climber with several options, and finding the best/ easiest of these may be difficult as they are not readily visible from below. Nonetheless, there is a sizeable, triangular platform to the left of the bolt, and a large pocket to the right that probably offer the best possibilities for a successful ascent.

Few genuine 5.8 leaders seem to work this problem out on the first go, but a fall (AFTER you have clipped bolt #3) should not be more than the slack and stretch you have in your rope.

Taller climbers will have a decided advantage on this crux section of "Sissy Boyz."

Thorkel's description of this sequence (on the Ridgeline introduction page)is a helpful beta for this series of moves.

Addendum, 4-04-06: I have just read elsewhere that some climbers feel "Sissy Boyz8" may be a 5.10a. It would be very helpful to get as many reported difficulty ratings as possible for this climb, my own rating, 5.9, may be on the low side? Thanks!


Location 

"Sissyboyz-8" is route #2 on the main Ridgeline face, some 15 feet east of the first bolted line ("Small Brown Mouse").


Protection 

6 bolts, 2 anchor chains at top



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By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is very fun route. Definitely not 5.8. Onsighting is tricky because of the thin moves under the roof, so it feels more like 5.9+ the first time. But I'd say 5.9 once you know the moves. Certainly harder than Sudden Impact (5.8+). My favorite route on this wall (but I haven't done the 10s).

By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
Apr 20, 2013

There are now more bolted routes to the left of this climb, including Onsight or Flight, and Send or Mend (in addition to Small Brown Mouse). Hence, this will now be the 4th boltline you come to, just past the standing tree (by the roots of the toppled tree). Very fun climb.