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Start in the lower huecos on either side of the black streak and smear a bit to gain the large hueco. The business starts with a couple crimps then set up for a bit of an off-balance deadpoint to a crimp. Make two more moves to a good flake to clip. The falls are safe. Climb easier moves to the top.
Middle climb, shares anchors with Betelgeuse.
6 TITANIUM bolts plus anchor
By Dustin Stephens
Dec 25, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good route. Beware of falling from the crux, which is not terribly well protected.