Sirens of Titan 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Rob Candelaria and Pat Ament |
| Submitted By: | Peter Spindloe on Nov 22, 2001 |
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Zack D on 'Sirens of Titan' - 4/27/07
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Description Start as for Prince of Darkness. This is the right-angling crack on the top buttress of the West Ridge. Scramble up to the base of the crack, place one or two big pieces and pull up into the crack. Follow the crack to the arete and then up to a belay ledge. Be careful setting up the belay as the blocks are big but detached. Walk off towards the gully.
Protection Camalots (1, 2, 3, 3.5 and 4) plus a few nuts. Extra #2 and 0.75 Camalots for belay.
| Comments on Sirens of Titan |
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 21, 2002
| Surprising pump for just a 5.9, perhaps better bigger crack technique. |
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 21, 2002
| This diagonal crack is a real arm pump out as footholds are hard to come by. Harder for the leader, too, as they have to stop and fiddle with pro (follower can usually just yank-n-go). |
By Sergio P
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.9
| With a double runner at the far right roof you can link P1 and P2. Easy walk off. |
By pfwein
May 18, 2009
| If you sprint it, feels pretty easy for grade, if you go slow, you may get torched. |
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