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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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A Cut Above T,TR 
Android Tilt T 
As We Liked It T 
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Between the Cracks T 
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Chockstone T 
Cornerstone TR 
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Ice Nine T 
Jericho T 
Joke Crack to Superstone T 
Knight's Move T 
Laughing at the Moon T 
Ministry of Fear T,TR 
Modern Defense T 
Muscular Dystrophy T 
Prince of Darkness T 
Purple Haze T 
Red House T 
S&M T 
Sirens of Titan T 
Speakeasy T 
Superstone T 
Sylvia's Bush T 
Tilt Right T 
Whiplash T 

Sirens of Titan 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria and Pat Ament
Page Views: 1,906
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Nov 22, 2001

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Zack D on 'Sirens of Titan' - 4/27/07

2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>


Start as for Prince of Darkness. This is the right-angling crack on the top buttress of the West Ridge. Scramble up to the base of the crack, place one or two big pieces and pull up into the crack. Follow the crack to the arete and then up to a belay ledge. Be careful setting up the belay as the blocks are big but detached. Walk off towards the gully.


Camalots (1, 2, 3, 3.5 and 4) plus a few nuts. Extra #2 and 0.75 Camalots for belay.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Thor jamin, out
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By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 21, 2002

Surprising pump for just a 5.9, perhaps better bigger crack technique.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 21, 2002

This diagonal crack is a real arm pump out as footholds are hard to come by. Harder for the leader, too, as they have to stop and fiddle with pro (follower can usually just yank-n-go).
By Sergio P
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

With a double runner at the far right roof you can link P1 and P2. Easy walk off.
By pfwein
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2009

If you sprint it, feels pretty easy for grade, if you go slow, you may get torched.

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