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Three pitches; three headwalls; three stars in the guidebook.
Pitch 1 (5.10c): Balance up two bolts of slab to easier climbing. The third bolt is 30ft up at the headwall. Decipher getting vertical and ascend to the anchors of the first pitch.
Pitch 2 (5.10a): A challnging finger lock leads to milder, left trending terrain. Ascend a rounded arete while enjoying the scenary.
Pitch 3 (5.11b): Walk for twenty feet while heading for a dead vertical orange wall on the right. The belay could optionally be moved here. The last 60 feet are absolutely incredible: beautiful moves on gorgeous rock with great exposure. The crux is both awesome and challenging.
While this route is fantastic, it is not classic due to its inconsistency. Each pitch has both beautiful climbing and a rather dull section. That said if you climb the grade you should get on it.
Sir Clipalot is the first bolted line past the Orifice on the east face (left side) of the Fortress.
To reach the route hike to the Fortress and drop down to the left using the climber's trail. Most climbers stash unnecessary gear prior to dropping down. This is where you will walk off.
This is a well bolted sport route with chain anchors. A dozen quickraws and personal anchors is sufficient. Each pitch has a runout section on significantly easier terrain.
Walk off the formation via the standard trail, which is described elsewhere. This involves a few moves of easy fifth class.
The route is a pretty straight shot and could potentially be rappelled should a monsoon storm be encountered.
In the midst of pitch 3. This might be an anti-be...
|By Alex McIntyre|
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 30, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
I'm going to go ahead and challenge you on the "not a classic" remark. Despite the inconsistency, the last pitch might be the best 11- I've ever been on. The exposure on the whole route is pretty good, but stepping out onto that slightly overhanging headwall is absolutely amazing.