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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
Page Views: 1,411
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2009

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Starting up the technical face section.


The ultimate full-value sport climb, Siouxie has a bit of everything. The route is long, sustained, and sequential, with cerebral moves on flawless stone and a brilliant position. This is generally considered one of the best routes at Siurana, though it sees few ascents due to its reputation as "girly" and stout for the grade. The climb has four or five distinct characters, all hard in their own way.

Scramble up the slab to a small ledge. Take a deep breath, then punch up the 100 degree wall, making big, precise stabs between sinker pockets. A sharp mono leads to the slopey break & the end of the bouldery section. Work left, then up onto the technical vertical wall. Continue left to the stunning arete and an awkward rest. Fire up the off-balance arete to its end, then crux back right on small edges and invisible feet, gunning for the obvious double pockets and a well earned shake. Sprint over the pumpy bulge to one last desperate section of thin, rounded crimps that could really ruin your day. A dark, mossy slab split by a leaning flake leads to the anchor.


Near the right end of the main, central Campi wall, is a light, tan streak with 10'-high arete on the left about midway up. Siouxie climbs the line of bolts up the center of the tan streak, immediately right of the arete. (A new route climbs just left of the arete on gold bolts.)


Bolts to 2 BA. Stick Clip recommended.

Photos of Siouxie Slideshow Add Photo
Onsighting "Siouxie", just above the cru...
Onsighting "Siouxie", just above the cru...
Shaking at the horizontal break that marks the end...
Shaking at the horizontal break that marks the end...
Contemplating the steep, pumpy finish.
Contemplating the steep, pumpy finish.

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