Sinsemilla Crack 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Madera and Butterfield |
| Submitted By: | Colby Wayment on May 16, 2006 |
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C to the P gettin' 'er done on Sensimilla Crack.
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Description This is a good AIRY, albeit short, rightward traversing crack climb with commanding position - read: more people should climb it. Despite its short length of actual climbing (~50 feet), if 5.10 hand cracks are near your limit like Mexican Crack's traverse, this route should give you a nice pump.
The only cons about this route are (1) a seemingly long approach with some bushes and scrambling and (2) it has slightly painful jamming.
This route may be difficult to discern. It did not look like what my partner and I had perceived after looking at Ruckman's topo. One can view it from Wheels on Fire up the canyon about 50 yards and midway up the wall. It does not look like much of a climb from the ground, but if it were closer to the parking it would be pretty popular. It traverses way more than it goes up.
Also, when you finish and rappel off of this climb, you can toprope the 5.10+ below the anchors - better and harder than it looks with gritty rock that might clean up with more ascents.
Location This is not too much further up the gully from Wheels on Fire. Near Wheels you have to do some scrambling to gain the gully above. From there, walk up canyon about 75 yards. Before you reach the Box Elder trees and the nice slab left of them, you have to scramble up a chimney to reach the heavily scrub oak covered ledge. From there, walk left on that ledge about 40 feet to gain a large flake. Walk between the flake and the main wall to reach the base of Sinsemilla.
Protection .75 Camalot to 3 Camalot(mostly 1's and 2's); You may want to include (1) 3.5 camalot
Recently updated anchors.
Sinsemilla Crack is the right-diagonalling crack j...
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the crack
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The flake behind which the climb begins.
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As seen from trinity right.
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Closer view from trinity right
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Finally, some rest after the all day approach.
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| Comments on Sinsemilla Crack |
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By tenesmus
Jun 27, 2006
| Never been able to find it. Can't wait to use your info - thanks. Looks close to Oasis... |
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 28, 2007
rating: 5.10b
| You would have to wait in line for this route if it weren't such a long hike. Awesome jamming and exposure from the start. There are good stances for pro (and rests) until the feet run out beneath the crack in an overhanging section. You'll get a pump for sure, and you might get a chance to see how well you place gear too! Ten, I'll be your guide for Sinsemilla if you let me second Oasis for you... |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| I highly recommend tape or very careful jamming. This one will cut you up. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 5, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| I'd recommend a #4 for the start or be prepared for some hard to protect funk. A #3, a couple #2 and up to three #1 come in handy. Of course if you're burly you'll need half that. Didn't see room for anything smaller.
Leave the nuts at home and build a mini anchor at the base with smaller cams if you're worried about getting pulled off.
Prepare to get worked if you have meaty hands, the crux is tight #2/baggy #1. IMO the comparison with Mexican's not-so-steep 5.9- handcrack is silly. This is a different game.
Rappel all the way to the ground (below the OW scramble/5.6) and then some with a 70m.
Side note: Oasis looks burly. |
By Spri
Jun 18, 2011
| As mentioned earlier this one is sharp. To be specific, the outer lip of the crack is very sharp, so as a thin hands crack it'll chop up the backs of your hands pretty good.
Ps. Green metolius are good on this one. I felt the #1 bds were fairly tipped out, and that #2 bds were rather overcammed. |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
May 19, 2012
| Really great handcrack. Bit of workout to get to. If you are struggling to locate this one, it can be seen as low as from Looney Tunes/Trinities, but best from Wheels. Look high up the gully on the west face and you should see an obvious rightleaning handcrack. It actually is more difficult to see as you get closer to it, which can be frustrating. Great directions by the poster, although I think this crack looks exactly like it is described by the Ruckman boys. Doubles #1-#3 camalot and one #4 is all I used. Perfect jams the whole way with some creative feet action. |
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Nov 2, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| definitely got a whiff of the sensi about halfway through this route coming out of the crack. Great name and fun route minus the crappy descent/approach. |
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