Sinopia 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Peter Beal |
| Submitted By: | Jim Redo on Sep 8, 2003 |
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Ted cruising the second crux on sinopia. Photo by ...
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Description Sinopia is the second route from the left. This route looks Waaay easier than it is. Stick clip the first bolt, because it looks 5.7...but it's not. Climb past three bolts including the first up a corner which deposits you on a ledge. Sit, lay down, have lunch, whatever, but rest before tackling the headwall. Clip two bolts off the ledge and tackle the first crux. Either a big throw if your tall or pimpin' small grips if not. Shake out and head left to the next crux, technical climbing brings you to the lip and final clip. Don't fall here. There is a kind of a funky last move getting established on the slab. A good route.
Protection 8-9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Bruce Miller on the Orb, Frisky Cliff, photo: Bob ...
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May '09.
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Ted Lanzano on Sinopia.
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By Alan Higham
May 2, 2008
| I had left draws and a cam on Sinopia at the end of December '07, I noticed recently that they are gone and different draws in place. If anyone has my gear, I would love to get it back.
Cheers |
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 11, 2012
rating: 5.13a
| Great route for a summer morning. The trick for me was figuring out the move off the sloping shelf past the 5th bolt. There are several ways to do this lunge move, but only one worked for me. A second crux past 6th bolt was powerful but more obvious. Still more 5.12 above. This climb has a total of four 5.12 section in a row. The 5.11d dihedral start can feel pretty burly too. |
By Kelly P
Mar 31, 2012
| We were up here today...anyone know what the thin recently bolted face start to the immediate left of the Sinopia start is? It is quite thin, sharp and devious.... |
By Eric Carlos
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2012
| There is also a line that shares the first crux and then, from the jug, goes right through another crux and up to the slab. |
By Ben Collett
Sep 20, 2012
| That is Sin Gaz. 12c-ish? Kind of fun but not as good as Sinopia. |
By Pinklebear
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.13a
| And the direct left start on the Z-seams would be "Con Gaz," or at least that's what we were calling it, but we never could do it. V-double-digit something or other, open project, start with the first bolt stick-clipped, have at it, don't trash your right shoulder.... |
By ChanVan
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.12c
| I agree that it is definitely harder than it looks, but still not 13a. Fun route, though. |
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