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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chris Hahn
Page Views: 2,017
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 27, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Working through the route's crux--getting past the...


Good first lead. Classic!


On the separate boulder at the east end of Cracker Jack Cliffs, starts in the creek bed.


5 bolts to chain anchors

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By Hillary Davis
Mar 21, 2007

Aesthetic and a must-do novelty, but by no means classic. I wouldn't stick a conservative beginning leader on a traversing route like this, but that's just me. Bakes in the sun and inaccessible during periods of high water.

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 10, 2007

Agreed, Hillary! Our group had two relatively new leaders get on this route last weekend and both got stymied at the third bolt where the small pockets disappear for a moment and one must rely on smearing on dished areas in the rock. Granted, with the angle of the rock it's not hard but it's hard to commit to when you're a new leader.

Neat route!

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 3, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Sorry guys, but I respectfully disagree... we had a brand new leader on this route yesterday (i.e. this was his first day leading) and he did just fine. What's wrong with a new leader having to commit to small footholds? Sounds like a good thing to me, especially on a well-protected route like this. It's not like you're going a long way or hitting the ground if you fall, since there's 5 bolts in barely 30 feet of climbing and the hard part is near the top. Plus, a third can scramble up the side of the boulder and make sure the leader sets up the anchors properly. I don't think it gets much better for a first lead.

By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
Mar 6, 2008

Its a great first lead because it is safe but if they are really conservative then they can still get a taste of the terror that is to come with future lead climbing.

By Randy Loveless
Oct 23, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

I really liked this route, but my climbing buddy didn't care for it much. Not the easiest of 5.5's.... maybe more of a 5.6. Fun route, though, and a nice warm up!

By Wiessner
From: Denver Colorad
Feb 10, 2009

Great first lead for a first timer

From: Mesa AZ
Apr 22, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Solo it already...

By Peter Thomas
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Bolts are starting to show rust streaks