Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance)
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Tucked back in the canyon left of the Golden Dreams wall is a broad arete with a vertical seam down low that leads to a very inviting jam crack through a bulge. Scamper up onto the Skink block for a great look at this (see photo). The initial seam is a fun enough aid line (C2, tiny gear of all kinds and a hook move), but this was feed recently at 5.13a. Whichever way you do it, you're bound to enjoy the crack above (9+ or maybe 10a).
Enter the canyon left of Stinky Americans and you see the arete on the right about 30 ft ahead of you. Start at the base of the arete, on a pointed boulder.
The left-arching seam on the arete takes tiny gear and feels like PG. The crack above takes normal stuff.
|Comments on Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance)
Sep 12, 2011
Saw chalk on the seam. Did this go free?
Aug 23, 2012
Yeah, the bottom seam was freed in a ground up effort. Likely 13a or so...
Bassforyourface.com has video of a failed attempt....