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 ADVANCED
The Golden Wall
Select Route:
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Scoop Arete T,TR 
Scoop Face T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Skink T,TR 
Skink Redirect TR 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 

Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Aug 2012 Nyle Baker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,088
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on May 25, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Sinister Urge and Time for Therapy in the Skink Ca...

Description 

Tucked back in the canyon left of the Golden Dreams wall is a broad arete with a vertical seam down low that leads to a very inviting jam crack through a bulge. Scamper up onto the Skink block for a great look at this (see photo). The initial seam is a fun enough aid line (C2, tiny gear of all kinds and a hook move), but this was feed recently at 5.13a. Whichever way you do it, you're bound to enjoy the crack above (9+ or maybe 10a).

Location 

Enter the canyon left of Stinky Americans and you see the arete on the right about 30 ft ahead of you. Start at the base of the arete, on a pointed boulder.

Protection 

The left-arching seam on the arete takes tiny gear and feels like PG. The crack above takes normal stuff.


Comments on Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) Add Comment
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By Gunkiemike
Sep 12, 2011

Saw chalk on the seam. Did this go free?
By BigA
Aug 23, 2012

Yeah, the bottom seam was freed in a ground up effort. Likely 13a or so...

bassforyourface.com has video of a failed attempt....
By Gunkiemike
Aug 24, 2012

Nice job!!