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Sinister Dane 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Timmy F ?
Season: Winter
Page Views: 2,426
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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MattL moving through the final boulder problem of ...

Description 

This is likely the longest hard sport route at Socorro. I've heard that this is also the best hard sport route, though this is the only hard route I've done here. The route is surprisingly good. The rock looks like choss both from afar, and up close, and the quantity of glue certainly makes you wonder, but I found the rock to be very solid, and enjoyable. If you want juggy thuggery this is not the place for you. Once past the initial boulder problem this route is crimping paradise.

The route starts with a chimney move to gain a big ledge. From the ledge climb horizontally out the arch using the sort of technique you would expect. The most powerful business comes turning the lip. Its not too bad getting to and clipping the fourth bolt, but immediately after the 4th clip a powerful lock-off is required to reach the key hold. Once established on the hanging wall, a decent rest gives way to some glued holds, hard-core crimping and ultra-techy beta. After the traverse right there is another so-so rest, and then the upper crux: devious, insecure face climbing. There are no straight down holds in this section, so don't bother looking. This redpoint crux ends at a horizontal break and no hands rest. Shake well here, as one more sharp crimpy move guards the chains.

Location 

Left end of the wall, at left end of cave opening. The route climbs rightwards out the left arch of the cave for 3 bolts, then turns the lip with some exciting gym-maneuvers. Once over the lip, the route climbs straight up for two bolts, then traverses right to the 6th bolt, then straight up past 3 more bolts. Once above the lip, don't be suckered left onto two new bolts in the black streak.

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of Sinister Dane Slideshow Add Photo
MattL working throught the shared section with Full Penetration, chased by his shadow.
MattL working throught the shared section with Ful...
The rope hanging on Sinister Dane
BETA PHOTO: The rope hanging on Sinister Dane
Peter flipping the lip to begin the vertical portion of Sinister Dane.
Peter flipping the lip to begin the vertical porti...
The powerful move reaching left on Sinister Dane, the crux still awaits though.
The powerful move reaching left on Sinister Dane, ...
Using bizzar beta and terrible holds is one of MattL's strengths. Making the 3rd difficult section tough to say the least.
Using bizzar beta and terrible holds is one of Mat...
MattL moving out of the second rest into the 3rd difficult section.
MattL moving out of the second rest into the 3rd d...
Peter approaching the red point crux of Sinister Dane.
Peter approaching the red point crux of Sinister D...

Comments on Sinister Dane Add Comment
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Three stars for the diversity of the climbing on generally solid "glued in places" rock. A steep bouldery powerful start, leads to hardcore crimping, then the crux imo, hard gaston / sidepulls in a slight corner system. Originally graded 13c, now considered 13b or c depending on who you ask, probably closer to 13b imo.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 8, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

4 stars for Socorro with out a doubt. Probably even 2 stars at most crags if one can ignore the glue, sometimes it just take a little "special" attention to make things safe and climbable. Not really sure where the actual crux is, but the climb does have 4 nice distinct sections that are broken up by OK rests and a great rest before the end.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 9, 2009

Well, with ET only an hour further on down the road, its tough for me to give this more than 2 stars. But I appreciate hearing this is "4 stars for Socorro". It validates my decision to avoid climbing at Socorro. I think this is a good route to do once you've done the more classic routes in the area, or a good winter option when Palomas, Cochiti & ET are snowed in.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 9, 2009

It most certainly validates the idea of having star ratings for the areas and not only climbs. It's an idea that has come up before. I will mention it again to the admins and the site developers.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Also a good choice when you have to carry a 30 pound child and 20 more pounds of stuff for them so I have no desire to hike into Palomas, I beleive the gate to Cochiti is closed and I hate little pockets and tiny edges and it is longer than Child O Light. By the way Mono, did you ever try COL?
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 9, 2009

Discussion continued here......