Singapore 5.11a PG13
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | bbrock on Apr 13, 2007 |
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Golden goodness. Steeper than it looks.
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Description Top 5 best 5.11 crack climbs at the City(IMO). Singapore doesn't get done that often as it has a fierce reputation. The pro is perfect until the end where it starts to flare a little and gets pumpy. Also Check out Battle of the Bulge about 50 yards to the right of Singapore.
Here's your list: Brown Flake(Morning Glory)
Scar Tissue(The Office)
Crack of Doom(Morning Glory)
Terror of Tiny Town(Buzzard)
Singapore(Window)
Location Window Rock at the left end. There is an amazing looking overhanging dihedral just above the Singapore chains
Protection Doubles up to .75 camalot. A #1 camalot may fit in the flare at the end before the chains
A shot of Singapore's thin cracks...
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JAG on his way to on-sighting Singapore.
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A friend climbing Singapore, Onsight.
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By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Apr 14, 2007
| Nice list, but Terry of TT and Crack of Doom are both 5.10 cracks w/ 5.11 face cruxes. So, in that sense, I'd add The Awakening on King on the Throne. |
By powerandrubber
May 9, 2007
| My favorite route at the city, better than COD. I don't get the "fierce" reputation. I've lead it 3 times with good gear, blue and green aliens work best at the top IMO. If the crux (last) placements blow you're still way off the ground. Make sure you do Harvest (10d) to the left, also one of the best City cracks. Both these routes get plenty of shade. |
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 14, 2008
| Wow... You will need to bring your A-game to onsight this one. The lower dihedral is straight forward and only marred by some loose rock at the start. When the dihedral starts to lean, this is where things get interesting. There is good gear, but it is difficult to place and inspect while climbing. The majority of the upper crack is slightly flaring or irregular, which makes the gear tough to place. There are some bomber nuts along the way, so bring a good selection of nuts. |
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 18, 2010
| I was in the 5th day of a vicious 7-day C-Diff infection (for the prior 2 days I was still on a liquid-only diet). And some how I still managed the on-sight this beast. The route is safe...provided the gear goes in...and that gents...is the crux. The crack will only take it in a few places, the rest would be worthless make-believe placements.
The first half is a good warm-up. You get a great rest at the ledge, though getting off of it and established on the upper dihedral is a real puzzle, merely hanging on to the shuts is the physical crux. |
By lucasbarth
From: tacoma, toyota
Sep 23, 2010
| Hey, what about Interceptor and Lary's Annihilation for the best 5.11 cracks at the City. Now those are some real crack climbs. |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
May 16, 2011
| I did this one a couple days ago, and to me the gear was not an issue. It drops in wherever you want and it is good. I'm sure there are bad gear placements like on all climbs, but its not like you have to find the "one good placement". I placed about 8 cams, from purple c3 size to .5 camalot. There are some decent feet to rest on. Get on it. Its no more dangerous than Tiny Town or Scar Tissue. |
By Ian Cavanaugh
Jun 12, 2011
| I have yet to climb this route, but im heading down this weekend. Plan on getting on it. and as for your is I would also add Electric Ave and Skinners roof. two of the best routes out there, hands down. |
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