Singapore Sling  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  John Rosholt & Phil Broscovak, 1976 Submitted By:  phil broscovak on Dec 30, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: A view from Aphrodite to Half Hearted.

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Description 

Start the same as for Christine's and Corky's. Work up on progressively harder climbing to the base of the big roof. From here, Christine's goes straight up more roofs and Corkey's traverses out left around the big nose. Singapore Sling takes the classic 5.10b undercling out the roof to the right. Traditionally a semi-hanging belay was set immediately after turning the roof. This is probably still a good idea not only to cut down on rope drag but also to keep a good eye on your second. Sinapore Sling is one of those 'intriguing' climbs where the roof goes down and around. Consequently the second gets a little dose of 'leading' while cleaning the gear. From the belay stance you could continue straight up the stellar 5.11 double cracks of Half Hearted. This is a steep and stiff pitch but ohh so good! Originally the route crosses over Half Hearted and takes the 1st crack to the right. this is a 10b/c flaring, slightly overhanging finger and hand crack with an 'interesting' slabby garden finish. If you go this way, and I heartily recommend it, you will certainly appreciate the reduced rope drag that the semi hanging belay provides.

Descent is by rap or 3rd class down the 5.5 practice chimney to the climbers right. It is also possible to scramble up and off the top and hike around the back side. Singapore Sling is one of my most fondly remembered climbs. Go do it, it will make you smile!

Protection 

Standard rack; small wired to hand sized. Probably no need for doubles of any gear. Gear is good except for the first tenty feet and last thirty feet of flared crack.