Sinewave (aka S Crack) 5.11b/c
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Mike Roybal, early 1970s |
| Submitted By: | Jason Hundhausen on Jun 11, 2008 |
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Description Sinewave: One of the most intriguing routes to be found at the Old New Place or in White Rock, for that matter. A challenging and sequency boulder problem off the deck, begin climbing the sinusoidal crack, which will test your skills and strength as you work to keep from barndooring off. The crack is more of a seam for the first 15 feet, although there are places where small RPs would provide protection; bold leaders solid at the grade will love this route. After the initial crux the grade eases for the next 15 feet with large ledges providing good rests and more opportunities to place gear. The route splits into two cracks after this: the left crack, which is assumed to be off-route, goes at a grade of 5.8 to 5.9 rattly fingers to hands with lots of face holds; the right takes you up an excellent overhanging thin fingers to tips crack which, if not for a large sinker pocket midway up on the left, would be significantly more difficult. Ten more feet of climbing in the crack and on small crimps gets you to the top of this classic route.
Historical Note: It’s reported that the late Derek Hersey freesoloed Sinewave back in the day. Think about that next time you jump on this route!
Location Route 13 on the Old New Place Topo. Easily identifiable by its namesake, Sinewave begins 15 feet to the left of Rattlesnake Crack.
Protection Nuts: 1 set including micros
Cams: 1 each up to #1 Camalot with doubles in the .3 to .5 range. Micro TCUs or C3s may come in handy too.
2-bolt anchor.
| Comments on Sinewave (aka S Crack) |
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 13, 2009
rating: 5.11d PG13
| This is probably the toughest "5.11" crack at White Rock that sees frequent attempts. S-Crack is way more difficult than all the other 5.11s on this cliff, and substantially harder than Unrelenting Nines at The Playground in my estimation. There are at least 3 different ways I've seen people pass the crux, though some may argue that using any holds more than about 2' away from the crack itself is cheating. Most action is on toprope, but a bunch of people have led this climb, but bewarned: at the crux moves about 12' up, only brassies or other small nuts are between you and the ground. A few have pulled gear and hit the ground, myself included, thankfully the landing is flat and sandy.
Recommend doubles from #00 TCU - #0.75 camalot, especially if taking the harder right branch for the upper section. |
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