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The steep 6b headwall fist crack of Sinestro Total...
The Sinestro starts near the base of a steep, loose 4th class gully that you approach from the east. A couple raps and a lot of scrambling bring you to the base.
Pitch one begins at the base of a slabby ramp next to a left facing corner with a seam, climb next to this on face cracks. After the ramp, climb a steep, but short, headwall with a technical and thin crux(6b). From here, easier climbing arrives at a cool belay ledge.
Pitch two ascends through a strange bulge/step around to the right and into a beautiful steep dihedral, which ascends to a fixed bit of tat at a short pendulum into another crack system roughly 4m to the right around the corner. Gear belay just below the pendulum point. (6a) [It is also possible do an alternate pitch 2 and ascend a steep corner/dihedral to the left from the belay here and then traverse right after you pull through the bulge, be careful to not go too high....the first place you see to traverse right on a small ledge system, take it, then poke a nose around the corner to the right in search of the pendulum point. A lot of parties go too high here. Don't get off route following chalk! If you are past 25m, then you have gone too far.]
The third short pitch, the pendulum pitch, ascends steep cracks to a big sloping ledge.(6a) The pendulum goes free at ~6b+ according to some local climbers.
Pitch four ascends the blocky double cracks above to a decent stance. (6a+)
The following (5th) pitch ascends a long splitter fist crack at a head wall. Steep and sustained, this will be the crux(6b) for many. Big handed people will find the crux to be baggy hands. The guide recommends 3 x #4 friends....but we did it with one #3 and #4 C4 Camalot, although we did run it out quite a bit on this pitch. There are big fixed wooden pins in the easier climbing above... Don't worry, they're not as sketchy as they sound. Arrive at a big ledge with a 70m rope, other wise this will be two pitches.
The next(6th) pitch is a huge traverse to the east along a ledge and step system. There is perhaps one difficult bit to contend with near the middle of the traverse. Lots of loose rock, so beware. Run the rope right to the end, we used a 70m. Belay at a ledge.
One short low 5th simul-climbing pitch arrives at the final pitch below the summit block.
Dump all your gear except a few draws here.
The final pitch ascends the bolt ladder of the Via Normale, which goes free at 6a.
Descend from the summit via fixed raps via the Normal route and the east face.
Retreat from the upper pitches would be problematic with a single rope, although doable.
The Sinestro Total is found on the west face of the Torre Principal.
Doubles from Green Alien to #2 Camalot. Most parties will want to take at least two #3's and one #4, but one of each is fine. Stoppers. 70m rope recommended. 8 alpine draws/slings.
The traverse near the summit on Sinestro Total
Feb 27, 2010
First ascent was made by Daniel Puy & Sebastian de la Cruz on March, 1988
By Rich Brereton
From: Durham, NH
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
We did the penji free. Felt like 5.11+/5.12-. It's only a couple of moves, but they are reachy and hard. Best crack route at Frey.
From: Golden, CO
Jan 10, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I thought the traditional 2nd pitch (right dihedral) felt way sandbagged at 6a+ (5.10) and was the crux of the route. Felt 5.11 to me...
1. We climbed the route on Christmas Day and encountered a good ammount of snow rapping down the gully beneath Chocolate Liquido. With a 70m it took 3 raps, 2 of which required leaving some slings or nuts. Not a big deal but worth bringing extra gear for this if your there early season. The advantage of this approach is you can rap right back to your packs at the end of the day.
2. Alternatively it is possible to scramble over to the base by traversing under La Muralla China though this will require bringing everything up and over with you.