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I find it hard to believe that this route has not been led before, and still presume it has; however, I could find no record of any previous ascent of this line. Climb the face R of the start of The Tower
and L of the very easy, corner weakness to the alcove below the big roof. Climb the fun steep roof through the wide slot and hand crack on the right, after surmounting the roof climb straight up the nice face to a smaller second roof to end up at the belay anchors atop The Tower
This route climbs the obvious crack through the right side of the big roof between the routes The Tower
and Wheel of Fortune
on the R. side of The Tarot Wall. It's fun climbing, worthy of three stars if not for easily avoided loose blocks at the base of the roof, and lichen on the upper face. Above the first roof, the route is right under The Tower
rappel line, and there is a random bolt in the middle of this face (which I did not clip as there is gear all around it; possibly someone was looking at one of the two much more difficult crack lines out the middle or L side of the roof?).
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Aug 23, 2010
I'm not sure of this grade, somewhere between 9+ and 10+? Maybe HardCor will repeat it and tell me what he thinks?
Yeah, it's a little dirty still since I didn't clean at all, but it's still good fun, if you like the high quality choss-a-neering kinda thing.