Simple Twist of Fate
||Ice, 2 pitches, 250'
|Original: ||WI5- [details]|
|FA: ||Tobin & Parks 12/1979|
|Season: ||Late Fall through Spring|
|Page Views: ||572|
|Submitted By: ||Richard Shore on Mar 5, 2013|
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Simple Twist of Fate is the long narrow climb unde...
The prominent ice flow in the narrow gully between the huge routes Bridalveil Falls (left) and Greensteps (right). Ascend some 500' of snow/easy ice to the base of the business. If climbing with 60M ropes, one will have to build a belay at the bottom of the steeps, directly in the fall-line (not-advised). With 70M ropes, a belay can be built some 50' down and right of the hard climbing, providing the belayer with some margin of safety from the garbage chute. From here, climb a full ropelength of steep 80-90 degree ice, making sure to take advantage of the few nice rest stances. Semi-hanging/stance belay just below the alders. Rap from here via v-thread, or continue up a second pitch of much easier snow/ice ramp to a bolted rappel station at the rim of the canyon.
The obvious gully/flow between the big routes Bridalveil Falls and Greensteps. 2 min approach from the large turnout on the west side of the road (assuming the Low River is frozen). Rap from bolts/v-threads back to your packs.
Many screws, v-thread material, HELMET!
Jason Stuckey leading the crux pitch of Simple Twi...
Mat on the way down from Simple Twist of Fate
Simple Twist of Fate WI5-