Simple Suff 

great climbing, but the first and hardest crux move is just above a ledge, and the gear didn't seem 100%. part of this is probably due to me not climbing here much and not having a good idea of where the marginal/pretty good demarcation of how good the gear is when it is in weird rock.

superb stemming, i found myself hanging off my arms to shake my legs out.

This is the best climb to break the 5.10 grade at the Gunks: no wild roofs, no run out "easy" section, and there are solid stances (if you have strong calves) to place gear. There is nearly unlimited pro along the crack and occasionally outside of it as well. Small cams, black alien to yellow and 3CUs are most helpful, the crack also takes nuts. Leave your big stuff at home. Bolted, chained anchor with rap rings through the hangers.

While I think that this is a great pitch, I'm not so sure that I would reccomend this as the best climb to break into 5.10 with. The gear at the start is not the greatest and a little tricky. I know of a few people who have messed up their ankles pretty good on the open moves. Once you get going the gear is excellent, but this type of climbing is a little atypical for the Gunks and may really throw some people off, seeming much harder than it actually is.

FWIW, i thought this was harder and not as well protected as p-38, doubleissima, nosedive, and quite a few others. for somebody who is pretty good at placing gear, stemming, fairly fit, etc it would be OK for a first gunks 10, but i would say there are quite a few others that would be better.

cool route though, that henry was wheelin and dealin back in the day!

I protected the small pod in the crack above the ledge at the start of the initial hard climbing with a #2 tricam- a 2.5 might be a better fit, but I felt the 2 was solid!