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Simple Simon 

5.11b

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
FA: Jeff Pedersen
Season: early spring - late fall
Submitted By: Austin H on Feb 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Perin Blanchard in the quintessential Simple Simon...

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Description 

Overhanging roof with great jugs, although 1 or 2 key holds are hidden. Some reachy moves may be hard for short people. The entire route is overhung with barely any weight on your feet until the anchors. Climb it fast as you get pumped out of your mind hanging there looking for the next moves.

Fun strong route.

Great photo op with the valley & lake in the background


Location 

In the middle of the overhanging wall section. Look at the beta photo. Starts at the chalk in the bottom middle and then goes up the jugs on the left side of the photo


Protection 

5 bolts and chain anchors. All the bolts are clipped from solid jugs.



Photos of Simple Simon Slideshow Add Photo
Simple Simon starts at the chalk in the bottom middle of the photo, then follows the jugs up the left side of the photo

BETA PHOTO: Simple Simon starts at the chalk in the bottom mid...

Simple Simon (11b) with Utah Valley in the background

Simple Simon (11b) with Utah Valley in the backgro...

STEEP!

STEEP!

Simple Simon

Simple Simon

Excellent views

Excellent views

Lovin' the steepness

Lovin' the steepness

Steep but fun route

Steep but fun route

Simple Simon

Simple Simon


Comments on Simple Simon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Knezek
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.11b

This was the first bolted climb at The Superbowl and at the time was one of the steepest climbs in Utah for .11b. A must-do for anyone who climbs in Rock Canyon at this grade and a great route to see where your power and technique are at on overhanging climbs.

By Brandon Bishoff
From: Austin, TX
Jun 6, 2011

I think that this was one of the most fun things i've ever done. It kicked our whole group's butt, but after a lot of effort I made it to the top.
The holds are great but the slope is relentless. There are some good feet in key spots, finding those gave me spots to clip from. To me, the route was mostly about not being intimidated by the slope (easily the steepest outdoor thing i've ever climbed) and committing to some of the ultra-bold moves to big but distant holds. The climb got a lot easier after the 4th bolt too. I'd highly recommend this one.

By Canyon Copa
May 30, 2012

Hands down the best overhanging route at this grade. It doesn't take much effort to find the holds as they are completely caked in chalk. Huge jugs, great protection, and technical moves keeping your feet on make for a great climb.