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d. Strictly - Shockley's
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Simple Ceilings 
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Travels With Charley 

Simple Ceilings 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 290'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry the III, 1957
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Simon Thompson on Oct 21, 2012
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Description 

Start: At a short, blocky, right-facing corner with a protruding block about 15 feet up. This is the same start as Three Pines.

P1: Climb the short corner to a brushy ledge with a tree. Move up and left following a short corner and face passing a ledge to another ledge and belay below right-facing flakes. 5.2

P2: Climb the flakes up to a small grassy ledge and continue up and left past another ledge to the GT Ledge. 5.3

Traverse left on the GT Ledge to the second of 3 jutting pine trees. The next pitch starts at the low overhang about 15 feet right of a belay/rap station (Nemesis)

P3: Make a few moves past the low overhang and move right to small corner and another overhang (crux), above which is a small ledge. Climb fun moves up the face past a piton (another crux), aiming for the obvious block that teeters out over the face. Belay on the nice ledge under the roof above. 5.5

P4: Move up and left past the roof/corner aiming for a second pin above a slab under another big roof. Make the thin traverse left and exit up easier rock to the top. 5.5 (The Williams guidebook has this pitch at 5.3 but I thought the traverse was the crux of the route. It's possible I missed something though.)

Descent: From the top of the climb it is possible to follow a faint(at first) herd path right to the bolted rappels of Three Pines.



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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Oct 25, 2012

A neglected route that has some good climbing. A bit blocky and bushy at the start, but the face climbing above is quite nice.

By Kurtz
Aug 1, 2013

P1 and 2 were fun but we could not find any pro on P3 off the GT so we bailed. I'm pretty sure we were in the right spot. Anyone know how?