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 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
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Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Glyptodon T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Simple Ceilings 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 290'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry the III, 1957
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: Simon Thompson on Oct 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Start: At a short, blocky, right-facing corner with a protruding block about 15 feet up. This is the same start as Three Pines.

P1: Climb the short corner to a brushy ledge with a tree. Move up and left following a short corner and face passing a ledge to another ledge and belay below right-facing flakes. 5.2

P2: Climb the flakes up to a small grassy ledge and continue up and left past another ledge to the GT Ledge. 5.3

Traverse left on the GT Ledge to the second of 3 jutting pine trees. The next pitch starts at the low overhang about 15 feet right of a belay/rap station (Nemesis)

P3: Make a few moves past the low overhang and move right to small corner and another overhang (crux), above which is a small ledge. Climb fun moves up the face past a piton (another crux), aiming for the obvious block that teeters out over the face. Belay on the nice ledge under the roof above. 5.5

P4: Move up and left past the roof/corner aiming for a second pin above a slab under another big roof. Make the thin traverse left and exit up easier rock to the top. 5.5 (The Williams guidebook has this pitch at 5.3 but I thought the traverse was the crux of the route. It's possible I missed something though.)

Descent: From the top of the climb it is possible to follow a faint(at first) herd path right to the bolted rappels of Three Pines.


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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Oct 25, 2012

A neglected route that has some good climbing. A bit blocky and bushy at the start, but the face climbing above is quite nice.
By Kurtz
Aug 1, 2013

P1 and 2 were fun but we could not find any pro on P3 off the GT so we bailed. I'm pretty sure we were in the right spot. Anyone know how?
By john2.71
From: Montclair, NJ
Sep 19, 2014

A fantastic 5.5 with an unforgettable finish.

Kurtz - the first few moves off the GT Ledge are unprotected. The start of P3 isn't obvious. P2 ends by traversing left on the GT ledge to the second of three pine trees. The 2nd tree is gnarled growing horizontally at your feet. The 3rd tree is a large rap station, 15 ft to the left. P2 starts immediately right of the second pine tree. There's a ceiling above with an obvious exit about 5 ft to the right. One burly move will get you off the GT Ledge, then angle right to the exit point of the ceiling.