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Simone Has Dreams 

Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

Type: TR, Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: G Johnson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Greg Johnson on May 25, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Line goes from left to right in the middle of the ...

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This is a fun and powerful boulder problem, but it is advisable to rig it as a TR (gnarly landing zone and no easy exit). Locate the dark streak/seam/crack fifteen feet right (up gully) from the start of Red Limit and straight down from a tree on a ledge/alcove. Bust out pinches and side-clings to hit the mid-way tooth-horn. From here, punch left to jugs or power up the flare. A sit start is possible.


See above. It is down gully from A Brief History of Time and just up gully from Red Limit.


For a TR, climb the first three bolts of Red Limit (5.8) and step right to the tree. Rig a TR off the tree.

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By Greg Johnson
May 28, 2013

My son, Hayden, and I added two additional lines off the same anchor rig. Hayden did "Laidback Nightmare" V1-2. It is the line of flares, pinches, and lay-backs immediately right of the start of Red Limit. It is a bit dirty (we only brushed as needed), but more fun and harder than it looks. I added "Shared Dreams" (V3-4), which starts on Laidback and bumps right to join Simone Has Dreams at the horn.