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Mitch Musci on the first pitch of Simon
Another fun route up Greyrocks southeast slabs, with two interesting pitches (P1 and P3) amongst mostly easy climbing. This one climbs the hardest of the Simon, Alvin and Theopdore cracks. Approach as for Greatest Route, and continue to the left (south) along the base from that route for about 150 feet. Start in a left arching fist (only initially) to hand crack, just right of Alvin and Theodore.
P1: Climb this crack to ledges (5.7,70 feet), joining the other lines for an easy (P2: 5.3?) pitch to beneath the overhangs. The overhangs are visible in the 2nd Picture shown for the route Theodore. P1 and P2 can be combined for a very long (200+ foot) pitch to just beneath the overhangs.
P3: The crux pitch climbs the right traversing crack below the overhangs over initially lichenous rock. Either continue up the crack directly to its end. Or take a recommended small variation. Half way up at a ledge, move right 5 feet and climb a 'lightning bolt' shaped crack up, back into the traversing crack's crux moves. One can move directly above the overhangs (recommended -- tough for communication though), or take a gully to the right. Either way moves over easy terrain to a large ledge (5.8+,90 feet).
P4: Climbs an easy wide crack up to another ledge with a tree and bushes. (5.2?, 90 feet -- can be combined with P3 for a 200 foot stretcher). From this ledge it's no more than 200 feet of mostly 4th class climbing, perhaps with occasional 5th class moves to the summit area depending on choice of route. Personally I hopped left over a few shrubs and climbed the gully.
SR up #3 Camalot. #4 Camalot nice but not necessary.
BETA PHOTO: The cracks start about 10 feet up on a ledge.
Josh is moving away from all of this
Trevor (Danger) Swanson possibly off-route and in ...
Big roof (5.9 if direct from left to right).
|By Timmy! Tormey|
From: Fakeville, USA
Dec 14, 2004
Great route! You can link pitches 2 and 3 for a fun 200 footer. Do the lightening crack!! It's killer!!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Feb 14, 2005
Another way to do this climb would be to extend the first pitch. What I've done is to set up the first belay at a tree about fifty feet above the end of the crack. A 60 meter rope will reach, but there won't be much left. From there, you can do the second crux pitch. We just scrambled up the rest of the way to the summit over 4th and low 5th class terrain. More people should climb this route because the rock under the overhang has a lot of lichen on it!
|By John Kelley|
From: Sedona, AZ
Feb 16, 2005
Roof crack is super fun!
|By Kevin Landolt|
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Aug 1, 2010
I solo this route every once in a while with the "roof crack" feature - which is the best part of the climb - and I don't free solo 5.9. I'd say 5.8 is more accurate and there's only a few moves that qualify.