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Simon Bar Sinister 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: chris smith 12/99
Page Views: 1,684
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Lil making the clip before pulling over the lip


A short but really very fun extension to Underdog. I'm always surprised by how many quality lines are hiding in the hills of Rumney. The big surprise here is that this extension was hiding above a route I've done so many times. I just needed to open my eyes. If it was longer and maybe a bit more sustained it would be considered classic for sure. But the moves are very cool.

Climb Underdog (5.10a) which just gets more fun every time I climb it. Then just before the anchor head a little right to the first bolt of the Simon Bar Sinister extension. After clipping this bolt, make a few hand traverse moves right as you get in to the steep stuff. There is a big flake like hold out right that can yield a bit of a kneebar. At the second bolt you hit some small crimps and get a bit exposed as the relatively low angle rock of Underdog falls away. A few more little crimp moves lead to the lip and the best part yet. A hard move on to a slab using crimps and delicate footing will finish it up. The promise of a big airy fall if you run out of gas looms in the back of your mind.


As you approach the anchor of Underdog (5.10a) head slightly right and follow 3 bolts out the steep wall above to the quick-clip anchor of Iron Man (5.11c).


12 bolts to quick-clips.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 15, 2014
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 5, 2010

Does anyone know if there are any issues with the rock quality on this pitch (after the rock slides above earlier this year)?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 6, 2010

naw man, should be fine... enjoy it...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 28, 2011

this extention is super fun... did it again today and i really think more people should... ive never seen anyone else do it... its just 3 bolts more on top of underdog...
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Mar 29, 2011

I agree Lee. This is a great climb. It's also easy to scope it after doing Iron Man, as you lower right down the climb. While you're lowering, it might not be a bad idea to put tick marks on the crimps on the slab too...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 27, 2014

I have now climbed this one many times and accessed it from underdog (standard) and also from the top of Polly... getting in to it from Polly is cool but a good deal harder than the other way and you must take great care to reduce rope drag or it might feel like you are climbing the crux with a 30lb weight hanging from your harness...
By J Meagher
Sep 21, 2014

How would this route be as a winter project? Does it stay dry like Underdog and Polly Purebred or does it get icy?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 21, 2014

Almost always dry but I can't say I've never had to wipe snow out of a hold or two on my way by ;) That's just winter climbing for ya...
But then if the wind blows the wrong way underdog can collect snow too...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 22, 2014

Your first clip can be made from the anchor ledge of Underdog if you have a moderate wing span (Sorry Soon!). After traversing out right, a knee bar will let you feel secure for the next clip (and the next with the right body position). Falling anywhere in this area is into outer space - nothing to worry about.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 22, 2014

yeah lots of what jeff said, its super safe, maybe a big(ish) safe fall if you fell pulling the lip... the 3rd clip can be a little strenuous, but much easier if the draw is already in place... so, make someone put it up for you ;)
By S. Neoh
Sep 22, 2014

LOL. I resemble that remark!
I never pass up a chance getting taller and stronger climbers to pre-hang draws for my weak sauce ascents.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 23, 2014

Sorry, had to. :D

You could also do the very sports climber thing and climb Iron Man, place draws and scope things out on the lower.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 15, 2014

I did a cool link-up in to this today, anyone else done it? "sinister-purebred-ethics". I think you can figure out how it goes... Definitely the hardest way I've done Simonbar. getting in to it from the right is hard enough then add Know ethics :) good fun!

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