Silver Winds  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Alan Nelson, Richard Wright Submitted By:  Alan Nelson on Dec 10, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf. For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This fine crack caught my eye during my first tour of the "Head". While the rest of the crew clipped bolts on the fabulous Starcastle sport routes, I learned that this clean and obvious trad crack remained unclimbed. Reaching deep in my pack for my "other" rack, it wasn't long before this situation was remedied.

Silver Winds starts in a clean, left-leaning, finger crack about 30' right (north) of "Warping the Gale". The crack ends about halfway up but is replaced by a left-leaning flake that carries you to a scenic, flat belay ledge.

Alas, there is no easy descent (and thus only two stars instead of three). I need to return with a drill to install a permanent belay anchor on top. We scrambled around until we found a block we could sling for a rappel a short distance to the north. If the sling is still there, it is long overdue for replacement, so plan to leave some webbing.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3". NO FIXED ANCHORS! (and no easy way down).