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John Saccardi follows the runout face climbing on ...
|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
This route is most easily located by first finding bolts on the route Zambria. The guidebooks do not reveal the position nor describe the route very accurately.
Go to the right hand side of the center wall, just left of the left-side "Turret" buttress of the Veil. Find the crux bolt of Zambria, about 15' off of the ground. It is in the shade and rusted and will not be immediately apparent. From the bolt, look some distance left (~25') to see a right-facing, hanging flake about 6' tall and 30' overhead.
Pitch 1, Option A: From down and left of that flake, climb up to a horizontal incut crack and place a few good cams or tricams and then climb up and right on chunky but solid holds to a stretch to a good bucket before reaching up and left to the hanging flake. This is 5.9 at my height, and is a distance above the good gear that will make a ledge-fall possible. If you are tall this might be as easy as 5.7. Being short would make leading this exceptionally insecure. From the flake climb up the slab (runout) to a ledge, and then right on the ledge to jugs and then up the face and back left to a belay tree. There is no 'small, right facing dihedral with a small tree' as drawn/described in the book. There is a flake with no tree, although this is where it is described in Rositer's topo.
Pitch 1, Option B: From the previously mentioned horizontal, step left (5.7 move) to a crack system at the corner with a few trees. Climb up this on good holds with a few pieces of pro to get to the first ledge as previously mentioned in Option 4a. Place a few good nuts overhead in the finger crack/seam at the left side of the ledge and then walk to the right on the ledge to gain jugs, which are climbed up and left to a belay tree.
Pitch 2: From the belay tree, step up a few moves in the shallow left-facing corner behind the tree, which fades to nothing. Step left, climbing on and protecting with cams in a series of large, solid pockets. Step onto the slab above and go up the slab or dirty crack to another large belay tree. At the top, the slab is pretty lichenous
From the belay tree climb/scramble left (West) to the notch of the wall at where you can get to the cliff's backside. From there, walk off on the backside and back to your packs as described for Wanderlust.
There is not great pro on this route, but take a light rack. For the crux, a few 1.5-2.5" cams or pink-brown tricam in a deep solid horizontal will be your closest gear.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 7, 2003
P1. Doing the option A seemed like better climbing but definitely more heady. Somehow reminiscent of Lumpy. P2. Going R from the LFC to the hanging flake seemed inviting. Climbing was good but ya might not want to pro that flake and wait til the crack above. Think good thoughts while you're on that hollow flake....Good route but that runout start might give pause to a 5.8 leader. Thus, 1.5 stars.Slugs like us might plan on over an hour to reach the crag the first time.