This is a decent climb on wide slab/ramp RIGHT of the Gold Rush ice climb. It is well-protected and in a beautiful location. There is some loose rock on pitches 3 & 4. (I don't suggest climbing under other parties.)
Silver Stage starts on right side of slab; it goes for 3 pitches up slab; the fourth pitch works its way up buttress above slab.
Pitch 1 - 5.10c.
Pitch 2 - 5.8/9.
Pitch 3 - 5.8/9 R. This goes up a Class 3 gully (2 bolts) to short 8-10' section of 5.8/9 (2 bolts, 1 spinner) to large car size ledge - anchor's on the right side of ledge.
Pitch 4 - 5.9. From the ledge, the climb traverses right for 20', then up dihedral for 100'. It is exposed and beautiful (maybe the coolest pitch). There is loose rock in spots.
Descent: 3 rappels (with two 60 m ropes).
Given the altitude and remoteness, this climb should not be treated like a sport climb at the local 50' crag:
- Temps can change quickly up here, so dress accordingly.
- Loose rock is prevalent on pitches 3-4. Therefore, helmets are a must.
This is Grade II for experienced multi-pitch climbers and Grade III for others (which is the original rating).
Protection / Equipment
Well-bolted. 12 draws. Helmets. Two 60 meter ropes. Layers for temperature changes. Climb is in a tight canyon w/ limited sun.
BETA PHOTO: Start of first pitch.
View from top of first pitch.
Climb starts from where I'm standing. The 5.9 is ...
Jessica leading pitch 4.
Looking down at the second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: View of Gold Rush climbs. Note the left-leaning ra...
Me moving up pitch 3.
From: Durango, CO
Sep 12, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quality, quality route. This can be done safely with a single 70m rope with a tactical rap using one intermediate station on Five Card Draw. You also must down-climb the last five feet to the ground. Two ropes might just be worth it.... Anyways, great route!
From: Durango, CO
Jul 14, 2011
The first rappel is pretty wild!