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This is a decent climb on wide slab/ramp RIGHT of the Gold Rush ice climb. It is well-protected and in a beautiful location. There is some loose rock on pitches 3 & 4. (I don't suggest climbing under other parties.)
Silver Stage starts on right side of slab; it goes for 3 pitches up slab; the fourth pitch works its way up buttress above slab.
Pitch 1 - 5.10c.
Pitch 2 - 5.8/9.
Pitch 3 - 5.8/9 R. This goes up a Class 3 gully (2 bolts) to short 8-10' section of 5.8/9 (2 bolts, 1 spinner) to large car size ledge - anchor's on the right side of ledge.
Pitch 4 - 5.9. From the ledge, the climb traverses right for 20', then up dihedral for 100'. It is exposed and beautiful (maybe the coolest pitch). There is loose rock in spots.
Descent: 3 rappels (with two 60 m ropes).
Given the altitude and remoteness, this climb should not be treated like a sport climb at the local 50' crag:
- Temps can change quickly up here, so dress accordingly.
- Loose rock is prevalent on pitches 3-4. Therefore, helmets are a must.
This is Grade II for experienced multi-pitch climbers and Grade III for others (which is the original rating).
Protection / Equipment
Well-bolted. 12 draws. Helmets. Two 60 meter ropes. Layers for temperature changes. Climb is in a tight canyon w/ limited sun.
View from top of first pitch.
Climb starts from where I'm standing. The 5.9 is ...
Jeff following second pitch. Animas River below. ...
BETA PHOTO: View of Gold Rush climbs. Note the left-leaning ra...
Looking down at the second pitch.
Jessica leading pitch 4.
Me moving up pitch 3.
From: Durango, CO
Sep 12, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Quality, quality route. This can be done safely with a single 70m rope with a tactical rap using one intermediate station on Five Card Draw. You also must down-climb the last five feet to the ground. Two ropes might just be worth it.... Anyways, great route!
From: Durango, CO
Jul 14, 2011
The first rappel is pretty wild!