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Americana Arete 
Five Card Draw 
Silver Stage 

Silver Stage 

5.10c

   
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Type: Sport, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
FA: Rex Wolters (and others?)
Season: Summer & Early Fall
Submitted By: Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of first pitch.

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Description 

Decent climb on wide slab/ramp RIGHT of the Gold Rush ice climb. Well protected. Beautiful location. Some loose rock on pitches 3 & 4. (I don't suggest climbing under other parties.)

Silver Stage starts on right side of slab; goes for 3 pitches up slab; fourth pitch works its way up buttress above slab.

Pitch 1 - 5.10c

Pitch 2 - 5.8/9

Pitch 3 - 5.8/9 R
Goes up Class 3 gully (2 bolts) to short 8-10' section of 5.8/9 (2 bolts, 1 spinner) to large car size ledge - anchor's on the right side of ledge.

Pitch 4 - 5.9
From ledge, climb traverses right for 20', then up dihedral for 100'. Exposed and beautiful (maybe the coolest pitch). Loose rock in spots.

Descent: 3 rappels (w/ two 60 m ropes).

Given the altitude and remoteness, this climb should not be treated like a sport climb at the local 50' crag:
- Temps can change quickly up here, so dress accordingly.
- Loose rock is prevalent on pitches 3-4. Therefore, helmets are a must.

Commitment:
Grade II for experienced multipitch climbers. Grade III for others (which is the original rating).


Protection / Equipment 

Well-bolted. 12 draws. Helmets. Two 60 meter ropes. Layers for temperature changes. Climb is in a tight canyon w/ limited sun.



Photos of Silver Stage Slideshow Add Photo
View from top of first pitch.

View from top of first pitch.

Climb starts from where I'm standing.  The 5.9 is on the other side of the bulge behind Jeff. (Background: Looking down the canyon towards Eureka. The intermittent waterfalls which form the classic ice climb, Stairway to Heaven, can be seen across the valley.)

Climb starts from where I'm standing. The 5.9 is ...

Jeff following second pitch. Animas River below.

Jeff following second pitch. Animas River below. ...

View of Gold Rush climbs. Note the left-leaning ramp (in the left half of the photo). Silver Stage (600') starts on the right side of the ramp and finishes on the steep buttress at the tip top of the photo.

BETA PHOTO: View of Gold Rush climbs. Note the left-leaning ra...

Looking down at the second pitch.

Looking down at the second pitch.

Jessica leading Pitch 4.

Jessica leading Pitch 4.

Me moving up pitch 3.

Me moving up pitch 3.


Comments on Silver Stage Add Comment
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By tyler88
From: Durango, CO
Sep 12, 2010
rating: 5.10c

Quality, quality route. This can be done safely with a single 70m rope with a tactical rap using one intermediate station on Five Card Draw. You also must down-climb the last five feet to the ground. Two ropes might just be worth it.... Anyways, great route!

By S.Mckinna
From: Durango, CO
Jul 14, 2011

The first rappel is pretty wild!