Silver Stage 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Rex Wolters (and others?) |
| Season: | Summer & Early Fall |
| Submitted By: | Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Start of first pitch.
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Description Decent climb on wide slab/ramp RIGHT of the Gold Rush ice climb. Well protected. Beautiful location. Some loose rock on pitches 3 & 4. (I don't suggest climbing under other parties.) Silver Stage starts on right side of slab; goes for 3 pitches up slab; fourth pitch works its way up buttress above slab. Pitch 1 - 5.10c Pitch 2 - 5.8/9 Pitch 3 - 5.8/9 R Goes up Class 3 gully (2 bolts) to short 8-10' section of 5.8/9 (2 bolts, 1 spinner) to large car size ledge - anchor's on the right side of ledge. Pitch 4 - 5.9 From ledge, climb traverses right for 20', then up dihedral for 100'. Exposed and beautiful (maybe the coolest pitch). Loose rock in spots. Descent: 3 rappels (w/ two 60 m ropes). Given the altitude and remoteness, this climb should not be treated like a sport climb at the local 50' crag: - Temps can change quickly up here, so dress accordingly. - Loose rock is prevalent on pitches 3-4. Therefore, helmets are a must. Commitment: Grade II for experienced multipitch climbers. Grade III for others (which is the original rating).
Protection / Equipment Well-bolted. 12 draws. Helmets. Two 60 meter ropes. Layers for temperature changes. Climb is in a tight canyon w/ limited sun.
View from top of first pitch.
| Climb starts from where I'm standing. The 5.9 is ...
| Jeff following second pitch. Animas River below. ...
| BETA PHOTO: View of Gold Rush climbs. Note the left-leaning ra...
| Looking down at the second pitch.
| Jessica leading Pitch 4.
| Me moving up pitch 3.
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By tyler88 From: Durango, CO Sep 12, 2010 rating: 5.10c
| Quality, quality route. This can be done safely with a single 70m rope with a tactical rap using one intermediate station on Five Card Draw. You also must down-climb the last five feet to the ground. Two ropes might just be worth it.... Anyways, great route! |
By S.Mckinna From: Durango, CO Jul 14, 2011
| The first rappel is pretty wild! |
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