Silver Lake Rock Climbing
Climber on pitch 3 of Brazilian
|There is presently no camping allowed at Silver Lake. There are some nearby campgrounds, though.|
New York State recently acquired an easement for public recreation to this 17,000 acre area. Known by locals simply as "Silver Lake", this area comprises 14 or more cliffs on two mountains -- Silver Lake Mountain and Potter Mountain.
Full information for rock routes is here
Ice climbing at Silver Lake is here
Beware of the bugs! The insect population is more abundant here than most other areas of the park. Spring and fall are the best times to visit.
From Wilmington, take Bonnie View Road to its end, then left onto Silver Lake Road. Within 4 miles you'll see the cliffs on the right. Continue to the intersection with Turnpike Road, then to one of the trailheads:
Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead: From the intersection with Turnpike Road, go west on Silver Lake Road for 1.4 miles to the Silver Lake Mountain Trailhead. A DEC sign marks the parking area. About 0.2 miles before the trailhead is a logging road on the right; this is the parking and access for Mud Pond and C Chimney Cliff.
Turnpike Road Trailhead: Follow Turnpike Road for 1 mile to a gated logging road on the left.
Goodrich Mills Trailhead: Follow Turnpike Road to a hairpin turn, where the road changes name to Goodrich Mills Road. At 2.8 miles is a logging road on the left.
Climbing Season For the Northern Region area.
Weather station 14.0 miles from here
20 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Silver Lake
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Silver Lake
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Silver Lake:
Featured Route For Silver Lake
Tears of Gaia 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b NY
: ... : C Chimney Cliff
Ascends the wall just left of the C-shaped chimney in the middle of the cliff. Uncharacteristic of the other routes on the cliff, this one is a face climb.P1 5.10b G: From the base of the chimney, climb out left on the wall, angling towards the arete to the left. Work up the arete, then back right and follow amazing incut jugs. At the top, step left, then up past two horizontal cracks. Make a big move to a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 100'P2 5.9 G: Go straight up (bolt), then move left to c...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
By Jim Lawyer
Jul 19, 2012
Oakcy: I've noticed this on other routes as well. Next time I go, I'll take a lightweight wrench and snug any that I find. (Perhaps others can do this too.) The fixed hardware is new and may take a while to seat properly.
Nov 22, 2014
This post is directed primarily to anyone involved in the FA or the FFA of Sinner Repent at the Centre of Progress cliff.
I'd love to know why you chose to take the route out the ledge to the right and up the thinner crack rather than continue following the original wide crack to the top. To be honest, I was afraid of trying the bouldery moves off the ledge to gain the handcrack, and just went back into the wide one to the top. Anyone wanting to go that way will find a slung tree now (we made it down from there with double 70s, but be careful if using 60s).
None of that is intended as any sort of criticism (and someone who admittedly couldn't pull those moves off the ledge is in no position to criticise anyway). This is a fantastic route - congrats on putting it up.
By Mark Bealor
May 25, 2016
Make sure to stop at Douglas Resort & Campground for a (ice cold) beer and a great calzone after a day of climbing at Silver Lake. The owners are friendly, the old wood building/bar is really nice, and there are tables by the lake.