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The Quarry Wall
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Ankle Wrecker 
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Elephantiasis 
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Kleptocracy 
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Marry Me, Becky 
Moby Dick 
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Offwidth Bulge 
One Night 
Recession Arete 
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Short Tour, The 
Silver Bullet 
Something to Do 
South Aręte 
Southwest Face 
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Unknown 
Warm Up Crack 
Whale, The 
Yearling 
Unsorted Routes:

Silver Bullet 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Wayne Crill
Season: winter
Page Views: 2,682
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Apr 14, 2008
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Alex on Silver Bullet!

Description 

Silver Bullet is the 1st route left of the most obvious line (Bone Crusher) on the buttress. It climbs a finger crack in a left-facing dihedral through a crux bulge and out a final roof to a double bolt anchor.

Start with a tricky boulder problem through flaky rock to a hand slot and the first gear. A good spot is recommended. Then fingers for ~50’, through a crux bulge and a final stance before the last 25’ of climbing through a fun roof.


Protection 

Doubles or triples in finger sized cams and a couple hand-sized pieces. All three of the routes on the main buttress can be toproped, unfortunately its tricky to get over the edge to the anchors. Up top you will find a crack and a bolt, rappel from here over the lip (careful loose rock!) to the anchors on any of the routes.



Photos of Silver Bullet Slideshow Add Photo
Joe pulling the final roof.
Joe pulling the final roof.
Looking straight up Silver Bullet.
Looking straight up Silver Bullet.
Joe cruxing on Silver Bullet.
Joe cruxing on Silver Bullet.
Finger locking goodness.
Finger locking goodness.
Comments on Silver Bullet Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

A bit dirty under the roof. Couple of loose sounding blocks in the roof, but harder than it looks.

By Dougald MacDonald
Apr 14, 2008

It's pretty easy to place a medium-size nut with a stick to protect the difficult opening moves.

By david goldstein
Apr 14, 2008

A great crack for the Front Range, sustained and thoughtful. Would be four stars w/ better rock.

By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 15, 2008

I thought this was definitely 11+, possibly 12a. Holy fingerlocks! Awkward pulling the final roof.

By Mark Ferguson
Feb 7, 2009

The opening move protects very well with a yellow C3 Camalot. Great pitch and 12- for sure.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Feb 15, 2009

I recently cleaned the flakey rock out of that placement. After working the route a bit, it was making me crazy that such a perfect crack had the gnar-gnar start. My partner thought my idea to clean the crack was wrong. Then I read the commnents above and thought: "It's not just me!"

Had there been anything sketchy about cleaning the rotten crack, then Will would certainly have been contacted first. Marks observation require's me to explain why a stick-clip is no longer needed.

By Scott Bennett
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Thanks Ken for cleaning out the start, I thought it was pretty tricky and was very glad to have a piece in right off the ground. Big thanks to the folks that have been developing this crag, it's a really cool place.

The crux was more sustained than I expected. I thought it was over when I grabbed the jug at the top of the overhanging section, but the next move might have been the hardest (or maybe I was just pumped).

Also, make sure to save a small cam for pulling over the last roof, it's tough to find a piece that's in solid rock up there, but I think I got a pretty good green C3, and my partner said he found a good 0.4 Camalot.
-Scott