Silver Bullet 5.11+
| 2,196 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Wayne Crill |
| Season: | winter |
| Submitted By: | Wayne Crill on Apr 14, 2008 |
| |
Looking straight up Silver Bullet.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Silver Bullet is the 1st route left of the most obvious line (Bone Crusher) on the buttress. It climbs a finger crack in a left-facing dihedral through a crux bulge and out a final roof to a double bolt anchor.
Start with a tricky boulder problem through flaky rock to a hand slot and the first gear. A good spot is recommended. Then fingers for ~50’, through a crux bulge and a final stance before the last 25’ of climbing through a fun roof.
Protection Doubles or triples in finger sized cams and a couple hand-sized pieces. All three of the routes on the main buttress can be toproped, unfortunately its tricky to get over the edge to the anchors. Up top you will find a crack and a bolt, rappel from here over the lip (careful loose rock!) to the anchors on any of the routes.
Joe pulling the final roof.
|
Joe cruxing on Silver Bullet.
| |
| Comments on Silver Bullet |
|
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c
| A bit dirty under the roof. Couple of loose sounding blocks in the roof, but harder than it looks. |
By Dougald MacDonald
Apr 14, 2008
| It's pretty easy to place a medium-size nut with a stick to protect the difficult opening moves. |
By david goldstein
Apr 14, 2008
| A great crack for the Front Range, sustained and thoughtful. Would be four stars w/ better rock. |
By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 15, 2008
| I thought this was definitely 11+, possibly 12a. Holy fingerlocks! Awkward pulling the final roof. |
By Mark Ferguson
Feb 7, 2009
| The opening move protects very well with a yellow C3 Camalot. Great pitch and 12- for sure. |
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Feb 15, 2009
| I recently cleaned the flakey rock out of that placement. After working the route a bit, it was making me crazy that such a perfect crack had the gnar-gnar start. My partner thought my idea to clean the crack was wrong. Then I read the commnents above and thought: "It's not just me!"
Had there been anything sketchy about cleaning the rotten crack, then Will would certainly have been contacted first. Marks observation require's me to explain why a stick-clip is no longer needed.
|
By Scott Bennett
From: Colorado, etc
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.11c
| Thanks Ken for cleaning out the start, I thought it was pretty tricky and was very glad to have a piece in right off the ground. Big thanks to the folks that have been developing this crag, it's a really cool place.
The crux was more sustained than I expected. I thought it was over when I grabbed the jug at the top of the overhanging section, but the next move might have been the hardest (or maybe I was just pumped).
Also, make sure to save a small cam for pulling over the last roof, it's tough to find a piece that's in solid rock up there, but I think I got a pretty good green C3, and my partner said he found a good 0.4 Camalot.
-Scott |
|
RSS Feed
288 more...
Slideshow
