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|Type: ||Trad, 10 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade V|
|Consensus: ||5.12a [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Jones & Gary Gray 1983. FFA Mike Anderson with Brian Smoot, 2007 |
|Submitted By: ||bsmoot on Apr 5, 2008|
BETA PHOTO: The free variation is on the left. The original ro...
Originally done as an aid route, Silmaril is a great mixed free and aid line. Moderate aid on good rock with "Indian Creek" type crack climbing. The first ascent party didn't place any bolts. A free ascent is equally good. A left hand variation for the first 3 pitches climbs a very good corner system to an intersection with the original route. The crux free climbing is right off of the ground.
There are good ledges at almost every belay. The bivy ledge on top of pitch 9 is huge. This is one of those seldom done routes in Zion that is high quality...no crowds, no fixed gear or belays, just beautiful cracks.
Descent: See topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Mike leading the first pitch
The excellent 3rd pitch
Tight hands on the classic pitch 6
Mike on top of pitch 8. This sloping "El Cap" type...
Happy monkeys on the summit.
Oct 16, 2010
Original Silmaril line is a classic right off the deck with only one throw away pitch in the middle. First pitch is superb 5.10 climbing. Next pitch is classic aid up a splitter in the middle of a very blank face -- recommended.
Anderson and Smoot's "FFA" is, of course, a variation on the original and not a free ascent of the line per se. A great effort nonetheless.