Silmaril  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade V Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Dave Jones & Gary Gray 1983. FFA Mike Anderson with Brian Smoot, 2007 Submitted By:  bsmoot on Apr 5, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The free variation is on the left. The original ro...

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing. See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Originally done as an aid route, Silmaril is a great mixed free and aid line. Moderate aid on good rock with "Indian Creek" type crack climbing. The first ascent party didn't place any bolts. A free ascent is equally good. A left hand variation for the first 3 pitches climbs a very good corner system to an intersection with the original route. The crux free climbing is right off of the ground.

There are good ledges at almost every belay. The bivy ledge on top of pitch 9 is huge. This is one of those seldom done routes in Zion that is high quality...no crowds, no fixed gear or belays, just beautiful cracks.

Location 

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Descent: See topo

Protection 

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Photos of Silmaril Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Topo	Mike leading the first pitch	The excellent 3rd pitch
Tight hands on the classic pitch 6	Mike on top of pitch 8. This sloping "El Cap" type...	Happy monkeys on the summit.