Those who have never climbed on desert varnish will find this climb a splendid introduction. The "glued on " nature of varnished holds over sandstone provides a unique climbing experience, of which the right hand flake near the first bolt is a fine example. Remember, pull down and not out and don't climb when the rock is wet. One would hate to contribute to the destruction of such an amazing climbing area.
Below the main wall, a flat ledge narrows and angles upwards the farther right you go. It eventually opens up again below a lower angled portion of the face which allows 4th class access to set up tope ropes above. Silk Panties starts midway up the narrow up-angling portion of the ledge and passes 5 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. The 5.7 rating may be a bit generous.
Midway on Silk Panties with fine varnished holds s...
Our Bro RON leading his first route ever! Great e...
Top of Silk Panties looking west over the anchors ...
|By Daniel Harper|
From: Menifee, CA
May 25, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Speaking of the "glued on" nature of varnished holds, all of the hardware on this pitch now consists of FIXE glue-in bolts leading to a TWO bolt anchor with steel quick-links. Safe and fun if you can get there early enough to avoid the crowds.
Jan 19, 2010
At some point the steel quick-links were stolen by someone. Judging by the (minor) wear on the anchor bolts, it has been gone for some time. Please do not toprope or lower directly from the bolts. On 1/19/10, the LVCLC placed mussy hooks (drop-in rappel hardware) on the anchor. Please use these to descend, and toprope from your own anchor material. Enjoy!