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Uncertainty Principle 

Silk Banana 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rick Piggot
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Sep 13, 2010
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Description 

A right traversing layback/undercling with slippery feet and gradually slippier hands.


Location 

Just past Pickpocket and off to the left of the road. A huge right leaning "flake" just about visible from the road.


Protection 

BP



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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Sep 13, 2010

Video of some solid attempts can be seen here

By John McManus
Nov 29, 2011

FA: Rick Pickett

By Mark K
Feb 25, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

On a hill full of physical climbing, silk banana really stands out as one of the burliest problems, and one of the best. As with most climbs, assigning a grade to this problem is not easy, but it is certainly not 12-. Personally, I don't think a route grade makes any sense in the case of SB as it is short, hard, and powerful; in short, it is a boulder problem. As such, it deserves a bouldering grade. Trying to convert bouldering grades into route grades is just silly, there is a reason why there are different grading systems for the two. If I ran in to this stretch of rock up on a route, ho man! I'd be shittin' cinder blocks. For me, an honest grade would put SB in the V7-V8 range. Regardless, it is a cool climb on a remarkably unique feature.

By johannsolo
From: So Cal
Mar 6, 2013

Bob's Big Wedge at JT is only rated V5. Let me know how that one goes for you and imagine hitting that one on lead. Maybe you are a OW master and you'll have no problem with it. Just sayin.