WI6+ M9 R
||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 480'
|Consensus: ||WI6+ M9 [details]|
|FA: ||Will Mayo, B. Collett, Oct. 2013|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||2,387|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Collett on Oct 30, 2013|
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BETA PHOTO: A view of the last two pitches from the top of the...
Steep, pumpy, wild climbing with multiple free hanging daggers characterizes this route. The FA involved a remarkable onsight performance on the crux pitch from Will.
1) From the end of the raps, climb left into the gut of the gully and up a shield of funky, cauliflower ice to a belay left of the hangers at a fixed pin, 250 feet, WI3.
2) Launch up the overhanging crack system, climbing two wild free hanging daggers and finishing on a steep, thin pillar. After 100 feet, belay in a sheltered alcove with a fixed pin on the left. The rock is generally pretty well-protected, but the ice is a little run out, WI6+ M9 R.
3) Follow the ice to the top, past some thin or incomplete curtains, 130 feet, WI 5+ R.
This route lies on the left wall of the Black Wall Gully. Look for the line of hanging daggers.
Screws, a single set of cams to #4 Camalot, nuts, and a few pins.
By Rob Griz
Nov 11, 2013
Nice work, boys, stellar line!