|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Art Gran, Dick Williams, 1965|
|Submitted By:||Dana Bartlett on Nov 26, 2009|
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Oct 19, 2011
I followed it, Karl did a great job of leading both pitches. Lots of interesting moves. First section of P1 kinda scary. Some details ...
start: We scrambled up diagonally left to roughly the same start as Andrew and set up our belay there. There was discussion of more difficult + direct ways we could have reached that point.
P1 - the "traverse out left", I would say "despite the _lack_ of a ledge" -- hands not positive, feet not obvious, rather balancy, rather exposed -- and not sure how far to keep traversing, when to start going upward. Glad I wasn't leading it, I'd be thinking about taking a big swing back to the right.
After P1 we walked about 15 feet left on the ledge to below a broken off-width crack, and from there Karl started leading
P2 - Up the crack and to the large R-facing corner. But instead of climbing the corner, work left on big holds, diagonal up to a little pointy rock. Which was a bit loose, so Karl didn't place any pro behind it, instead got a couple of cams into the horizontal nearby. Then a little more left and up to a ledge.
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 14, 2012
|try bouldering from the ground up for a spicier start. On the runout section of the 1st pitch, try staying on the right instead of heading left unless you either a) going for the 5.8 roof or b) have a super long sling to avoid the rope drag.|
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 18, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
|This is a beautiful pitch, but the start is definitely spicy. From the top of the initial right-facing pedestal there is an obvious horizontal heading out left. We tried it both as a foot traverse and then as a hand traverse. The hand traverse felt more reasonable---so, step down off the pedestal and then go left with your hands in the horizontal. After about 15 feet, make the crux moves up (sort of a two-move wonder) and then find larger holds leading up and right (passing a piton or two) until you can skirt the little overhang on its right end. After that, just head up on nice ground toward the obvious hand crack. If you've ever done much jamming you will find the hand crack trivial compared to the crux face moves right off the deck while facing a BIG, swinging, and probably very nasty fall. Easy to do in one pitch.|
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
|Good description from Peter Lewis but I wouldn't call it R: there's good gear in the horizontal just before the 2 harder moves. Not so good gear after that but it's there hence PG-13 sounds right. Upper hands crack is awesome. One of my favorite 5.7 for sure!|
By Keyan P
From: Brooklyn, NY
Mar 15, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
This is most definitely R. After the shallow right facing corner right at the beginning of the first pitch there isn't any gear until you reach a rusted piton and a shallow horizontal that barely takes a #1. That's about 30ft (?) from the last piece. A fall before clipping that piton would mean a nasty swinging factor-2 fall. Thankfully the crux of the face section comes after the gear. After the sketchy stuff you get safe technical face climbing that leads to a cool short splitter crack and the anchor.
Overall a fun route that clearly doesn't get climbed much based on the lichen growing on it :)