Silent Partner 5.10d
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Dougald MacDonald near the start.
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Description Varied and interesting, with crack cruxes at the top and the bottom and some slab excitement in between.
The most salient feature of The Office is a left facing corner that extends from the ground to about two thirds height of the cliff. About 20M to the right of this is an obvious crack/roof/bombay flare 4M above the ground. The roof turns into a left facing corner/flake.
Climb up a couple of moves and place #3-#4 Camalot size gear in the bombay. Traverse left 3' to an obvious edge then do a cool mantle/undercling sequence to get stood up on the edge. Layback up the flake until you hit easier ground and a bolt. Continue up typical COR knobby slab face to another bolt, harder & scary if under ~5'9" tall. Follow a seam/crack (#1 Camalot) up to an alcove below a clean, vertical or steeper 1/8" crack. The crack which takes good nuts is the crux and again is harder if you can't reach a critical fingerlock with your foot on a large knob. Continue another 7M of easier ground to bolted anchors from which a single 60M rope will get you back to the ground with a few feet to spare.
Protection Mainly thin, #1 Rock to #1 Camalot, with a couple of big pieces for the start. A couple of long slings are helpful.
Dougald MacDonald near the 2nd bolt.
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| Comments on Silent Partner |
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By andrew kulmatiski
From: logan, ut
Jun 16, 2008
| I'd give this a pg-13 rating. I was very glad to have some offset aliens with me and I could have used a quiver of rp's. Fantastic and varied climbing though. |
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| This route can be sewn up with a standard rack up to a #3 Camalot. Aliens are nice to have in several spots, and some small stoppers. |
By peter heekin
Dec 20, 2011
| This is one of the coolest routes in the City, in my opinion. The reach to the fingerlock at the top is amazing! |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 7, 2012
rating: 5.10d
| Stunning route - great variety of techniques used. Seems like there is no gear from below but after every cruxy sequence there is bomber gear, wires, cams. Bring brass for the upper crux thin crack. |
By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.10d
| This climb is every bit as good as scar tissue. it is way varied and from the ground looks improbable for the grade... but it goes! I do not think this climb is PG13. You are more likely to break/sprang an ankle falling in the first 15 ft of scar tissue. |
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