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Sikati Cave
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armata Sikati 
B69 
BMW 
El Choco Loco 
El Chupodromo 
Les Pirates de Sikati 
Lolita 
Morgan 
Mort aux Chèvres 
Où est l' Équipe 

Sikati Cave  


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Administrators: WAGbag, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: WAGbag on Oct 15, 2010

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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left side of the cave

Description 

This open cave is mostly shady all day with beautiful vertical and overhanging tufa climbing. With about 25 routes, several with extensions, there's plenty to do. Most routes are 5.12 (7a+) and up and the extensions are mostly in the 5.13's (8a) with a few 5.14s, but don't let that stop you if you're climbing 5.11's (upper 6's)! The ones that are there can keep you entertained for a day if your partner is climbing harder, and are well worth doing.


Getting There 

The 2008 guide is quite misleading - getting off on the wrong foot can double the approach time.
Take the paved road up from Skalia and weave your way through the switchbacks, goats and large rocks in the road. After the crest, at the first switchback there's a pullout with a goat fence. DO NOT go to the first demolished house, stay high and left, parallel to the sea and pass directly through two large boulders above the 1st house. This is where you'll pick up the trail with the red dots and from there it is straightforward, passing two more valleys, a house and a gate on the 40 min approach. At the downhill mouth of the cave is a series of fixed lines to get you down. Throwing on a harness and clipping into the fixed line as you downclimb wouldn't be a bad idea.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sikati Cave :
BMW   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
El Choco Loco   5.10d     Sport, 60 feet   
El Chupodromo   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Lolita   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Les Pirates de Sikati   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Mort aux Chèvres   5.12b     Sport, 90 feet   
Armata Sikati   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet   
Où est l' Équipe   5.12b     Sport, 75 feet   
Morgan   5.12c     Sport, 75 feet   
Browse More Classics in Sikati Cave

Featured Route For Sikati Cave
Finishing up Lolita

Lolita 5.11d  International : Europe : ... : Sikati Cave
The first section contains the crux as evident by copious chalk all around. Staying left seemed correct. From here go through a few easy sections with large runouts and potential for bad falls, reaching the anchors to realize you have enough draws left over to do the extension pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in International