Start off a small shelf and lieback the obvious hole as you highstep into it. Once established work up and right on large incuts with smears for your feet to an easy topout.
On the Southeast corner of the boulder at an obvious hole in the rock.
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for the parking lot side of the Entranc...
Jun 12, 2011
I'll comment on this one. I left a lot of blood on this rock.
It does indeed start with a low layback. You can also (if tall enough) reach into the hole and pull pressure towards yourself - stand on the bottom part of the rock and reach a thin hold. I got two fingers on it and was able to pull and lift my left foot into the upper hole. From here match feet. If you need, wrap your left arm around the corner for balance. Now you are standing in a bomber hole about two or three feet off the ground. Reach up for two thin but still bomber holds. It takes a bit of a leaning/mantling move into a very thin toe hold to pull yourself up from here. This was the real crux for me. It took a few tries, but the ground isn't far away.
For warmup, go around to the SW Corner of the rock... it's something like a 5.7 but super fun.
Edit: Be careful where you walk and throw your pad around this boulder right now - they're planting a bunch of new vegetation.