Find this route on the far right side of the north face of the rock. It can be tide dependant for the belay stance, though standing on the prominent rock behind the climb will help in all but the highest of tides. An interesting balancy route with great ocean views. Near the top avoid the temptation of heading way right, as the rock there is quite loose.
8 bolts to a bolt bolt top anchor
Clipping the 4th bolt. Copyright 2002 Melissa Moor...
Early in the route
The first of the long reaches approaching the diff...
Paul surveying his position...
Joe just getting off the ground. This climb requi...
Traversing right from the first bolt on a foggy da...
Now past the first couple cruxes, there are still ...
Starting the crux bulge.
Soaked in sea water, following this awesome route.
|By Brian Quiter|
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 27, 2002
On a windy day, a more feathery climber (aron) may get blown around on the balancy moves above the sea.
|By Paul Rezucha|
May 22, 2003
We lucked out and had gorgeous weather with a wonderful sunset! This route is fantastic! Even the very first move getting both feet on the wall was interesting! Moving to the right over the crashing waves makes this route fun and exhilarating! It doesn't look that steep up around the 4th bolt but it is! I blew out first try and had to give it a strong second attempt to get past this crux. I'll be posting some photos soon!
May 23, 2003
This route humbled me. Albiet, I am relatively inexperienced, with time, I can usually make it up most 5 10's.Not this one. What a blast however, the waves crashing below my feet the sun setting in the West and the solid rock beneath my aching fingers all made for a spectacular experience. Who knew such killer climbing was in our backyard. I went wit my Friend Paul who led the route and he made it up easily as I lazil belayed him from below. the first part was trickeier than I had anticpated and was perhaps what drained me of my stregnth to continue.
|By Ami Bhatt|
Dec 5, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This is a classic California-postcard climb. The setting is phenomenal (just over the Pacific Ocean - literally) and the route is great as long as you stay off the area just past the right side arete (it's quite crumbly).
From: La Jolla
Aug 31, 2009
FA was Ken Ariza
|By kevin deweese|
From: walnut creek, ca
Dec 27, 2009
Just hit this up yesterday and It def feels like a rock is missing for the 10c rating. You can see newer rock texture/color right at the place where one would expect a hold to be.
Still doable (and probably more fun now) but requires much thinner edging and smearing and balance work than is the character of the rest of the climb.
|By KP Ariza|
Jul 14, 2011
Iv'e been going back down here a bit and have forgotten how good some of this stuff is. A key hold has broken at the crux by the 6th? bolt and this route is easily 5.10d/5.11a now. looks like there might be more breakage at some point as the edge at the end of the difficulties a bit hollow.....
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Have to concur with the route being a bit tricky around the 6th bolt.
It seemed like a good idea to have the belayer anchored to the first bolt as well (it's easily reachable from the belay rock).
|By David Friend|
Oct 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Yes, a key chip for the left hand has broken, and moving up to the right after clipping the sixth bolt feels like 5.11a/b (height dependent). It's a one move crux, and rest of climb is still 5.10-fun! Pull on the draw if near your limit.
|By Tom B.|
From: Lodi, CA
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
I think it was the 6th bolt that was rusty and loose on this route. High up enough where you can fall have it pop and still be ok, but it's also right at the crux and there's a runout (relative to the rest of the route) above it.
Still an awesome route.
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Going to add another vote to the "this felt like an 11" bandwagon. Great route though and amazing setting.