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Sifuentes Weber 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 2,447
Submitted By: colin tuck on Apr 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: James Anderson near the crux (5.9+/10a) on the 2nd...

Description 

First pitch starts near the base of the Aguja Frey apron up an easy right facing dihedral to a belay below a steep hand crack. The long second pitch heads heads up the steep hand crack, up a right facing dihedral to where the crack splits. Take the left fork for the 5.9- variation. Follow crack to a massive hanging flake, and belay a few meters up the left side of the flake. Third pitch goes up a steep finger crack to the roof, traverses right below the roof (airy) and descends slightly to bolted belay. The fourth pitch goes straight up the awesome crack above with lots of face holds to a final fun pull at the top.

Location 

From the refugio there is a really obvious crack heading straight up the middle of Aguja Frey. This is the route.

Protection 

We climbed with one set of nuts, and a single set of cams through BD 3.5.


Photos of Sifuentes Weber Slideshow Add Photo
Aguja Frey rising behind Refugio Frey.  The route ...
Aguja Frey rising behind Refugio Frey. The route ...
Aguja Frey, profile
Aguja Frey, profile
James Anderson at the belay for the last pitch.
James Anderson at the belay for the last pitch.

Comments on Sifuentes Weber Add Comment
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By EMT
Apr 20, 2008

Great climb to get used to the area. Short approach too!
By Rob Dillon
Apr 21, 2008

This bad-weather standby bears an uncanny resemblance to Hair City/West Butt of the Bastille, I kinda think.
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 24, 2009

There are so many fixed pins that we climbed this stellar route with 15 QDs and a set of nuts.
By Mike A. Lewis
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 5, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The route described is actually a link-up of 3 routes, and is called the Sifuentes/Weber/Monte link-up, or something like that. THe actual Sifuentes Weber stays left of the roof on the 3rd pitch and continues to the summit from there. The last pitch of the link-up is the Sifuentes-Monte route. See the guidebooks in Refugio El Frey for more detailed information. Amazing route!