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Sierra Alpine Ice Conditions?
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By Jay Bach
From San Francsico, CA
Oct 17, 2013

Anyone have news on alpine ice conditions these days? I'm looking to get out next weekend and am wondering what North Peak, Mt. Mendel, V Notch, or anything else are looking like right now. Thanks.


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Oct 17, 2013

I climbed the north ridge of North Peak on Tuesday and the rightmost gully looked pretty good, from a distance.
There was a bit of a visible bergschrund near the bottom, but the ice looked to be complete top to bottom. Cannot comment on its quality, but if I had time, I'd be gettin' on it myself.

I thought I got a better pic of it than this but I guess not. It was chilly and movement was better than standing still taking pics. Look close, you can see the ice left of the summit.

North Peak gully, 10-15-2013
North Peak gully, 10-15-2013


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By PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Oct 17, 2013

North peak is in from below the Bergschrund, all the way to the Notch. At least as of 2 weekends ago. No rock showing through. Seemed hard and brittle, but I'm new to this.

Patrick


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By Johnny Y
From California
Oct 18, 2013
Dreams of Wild Turkeys

Climbed it on Oct 6th, condition pretty much the same as what Patrick described. Bergshrund is open on the left side but right side is neve. We got ice all the way to the very top, so if you are thinking this weekend I say go for it.

Gully looking good, early October in 2013
Gully looking good, early October in 2013

Crossing the bergshrund
Crossing the bergshrund

Oct 6, 2013, good ice, Jim leading our 2nd pitch after crossing the shrund
Oct 6, 2013, good ice, Jim leading our 2nd pitch after crossing the shrund


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By Jay Bach
From San Francsico, CA
Oct 18, 2013

Awesome, thanks for the info and pics. Unfortunately I won't be getting out until next weekend, but nice to know there's some hope.

And as a follow up, if anyone wants to head out next weekend, I'm looking for a partner. I'm new to the Sierras, but have been climbing ice for a few seasons on the East Coast, lead WI4, and have done some longer routes in the Catskills and Pinnacle Gully on Mt. Washington. I could do a three day weekend and will post in the partner section too.


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By Walter Graf
Oct 18, 2013

Hey Jay, I'm interested in next weekend. Sent you a PM, but let me know if it doesn't go through.


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Oct 30, 2013

Anyone interested in an ice route near Tioga this weekend?
Assuming the road gets open again (I think it will by the weekend) I'd like to get in there and get on something. I've got extra gear to lend (tools).


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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Oct 30, 2013
Switzerland

Bryce,
Mind letting us know what's in around Tioga? I've got plans to head down to the East Side next Saturday for a week, but willing to change plans to get on some ice.


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By PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Oct 30, 2013

Anyone have info on Mendel Couloir or U/V Notches?


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Oct 30, 2013

climbing coastie wrote:
Bryce, Mind letting us know what's in around Tioga? I've got plans to head down to the East Side next Saturday for a week, but willing to change plans to get on some ice.


What's up man??
Two alpine routes that I know of.... North Peak (pics upthread) is up that way, turn off at Saddlebag Rd, and Dana Couloir. I saw some pics of Dana from last week, the ice looked fat. Am wondering what the snow did to it though.


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By Ben Watson
From Tempe, AZ
Oct 31, 2013
Rappelling from Mt. Gilbert

Tioga road (120) will be open tomorrow (Fri, Nov 1st) at noon, per Yosemite facebook page.

Bryce, please post up some pics if you get on any of the couloirs this weekend! Also, we're curious on how far we can get down Saddlebag road in a Subi with the recent snow (if any?). Planning on North Peak / Dana for the following weekend. Thanks!

--Ben


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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Oct 31, 2013
Bucky

Ben Watson wrote:
Tioga road (120) will be open tomorrow (Fri, Nov 1st) at noon, per Yosemite facebook page. Bryce, please post up some pics if you get on any of the couloirs this weekend! Also, we're curious on how far we can get down Saddlebag road in a Subi with the recent snow (if any?). Planning on North Peak / Dana for the following weekend. Thanks! --Ben


Not sure how much snow Tioga got, but make sure that the pack is stable if you are going to do Dana because its slope angle is right in the sweet spot.


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 3, 2013

Nothing to report as I chose local objectives this weekend.
Anyone get to Dana? Snowy or icy??


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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Nov 18, 2013
Switzerland

Parker Canyon was in good condition on Tuesday. Open water down the middle, but fun climbing along the sides. Enjoy the hike! Might be easier if you stay on trail, unlike us.


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 18, 2013

Tom Mahr and I hit North Peak yesterday (Nov. 17, 2013) and it was in excellent shape. 3.5 pitches from right above the "bergshrund".
Bit of knee to thigh deep snow on the last bit of the approach but otherwise everything was easy going.


Was happy to turn the corner and see the blue ice and not snow.
Was happy to turn the corner and see the blue ice and not snow.



3rd pitch.  There was some snow collected on the R side of the gully, but you could climb all ice if you wanted to.
3rd pitch. There was some snow collected on the R side of the gully, but you could climb all ice if you wanted to.



For future reference, the Sierra had seen 2 small storms since late September and it had been 20 days since the last storm which probably dropped ~10" in this area, which was followed by mostly warm, sunny weather. There was some snow on the approach trail but was easily navigated.


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By Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 20, 2013
Pfeifferhorn via North Ridge

Anyone know what Dana is looking like?


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By PatCleary
From Rohnert Park, CA
Jan 2, 2014

Bringing this back to life since apparently it doesn't snow in the Sierra anymore I'm guessing ice is still manageable. Thinking about hitting up one of the couloirs next weekend, and I'm leaning towards Checkered Demon. Anyone know what it's looking like? Any of the others?


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By DJ Reyes
From Northern Nevada
Jan 7, 2014

Yeah, echoing PatCleary. Looking to possibly get up to North Peak this weekend. Any word on conditions? How's Tioga road? Hasn't snowed here in a coon's age and I'm starting to think that the approach will be manageable. Thanks, Don


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 7, 2014

I've been half thinking about the high country myself.
Road access is the primary issue, and then there is the snow. But since it hasn't snowed in so long, I bet some areas are about melted out entirely, especially anything south facing.

For the areas that still have snow, trails that are frequented by snowshoers can make for much easier traveling. Snowshoe trails that are hard packed and frozen are basically like walking on a sidewalk. I would choose a route or trailhead that is popular with snowshoers and even hikers now as these might offer a highway to near the base of your chosen route.

So, open road + snowshoers = potentially good winter access.


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By John Vanek
From Gardnerville, NV
Jan 8, 2014

Highway 120 is still closed 5 miles west of 395. Once they close it for the year it is closed until spring regardless of snow. Damn.

So how long would the walk in be?


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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Jan 8, 2014
Switzerland

Google maps shows 10.5 miles just to Saddlebag Lake. Add another few to get to North Peak. Sounds like a great adventure! A dirt bike would probably make it just doable in a day from Lee Vining. That is, if the roads are clear enough.


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 8, 2014

I'd bet money that the approach to the Matterhorn is rock solid due to snowshoers up to the killer campsite just below the snowfield. It was several years ago when I was up there in February. A winter ascent of the north arete would be very doable and fun.


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By TonyV
From Cool, CA
Jan 11, 2014

Greetings fellow ice fans....anyone been up to see the conditions of Moonage Daydream this past month?? Looking at temps between 7 and 9,000 feet using the best RAWs stations, it hasn't been that cold in the southern Sequoia.

Of course I'm looking for "fair" conditions but I'd rather have more ice than rock!

Thanks!


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By SirTobyThe3rd
Jan 13, 2014
Hello

If Cool, CA is more than a few hours away I wouldn't bother going. That climb is super awesome though.


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By Riley McDonald
Jan 13, 2014

Moonage daydream was bone dry last week. No ice on the watchtower at all...


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By SirTobyThe3rd
Jan 20, 2014
Hello

Ice in Tokopah Valley 1/19/2014
Ice in Tokopah Valley 1/19/2014


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