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Sidewinder 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, rope solo, 10 September 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,203
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Nov 19, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: View down the scalloped dihedral of pitch 2.

Description 

This excellent route begins behind a big tree on the brushy ledge that crosses the lower south side of the first tower on the Northeast Ridge. Hike the Solitude Lake Trail to Shelf Lake. Just before reaching the east end of Solitude Lake, hike talus to a high point on the shoulder of the Northeast Ridge. Climb the initial slab of Ripsaw for about 60 feet then break left around the crest, descend a short way and continue across a ledge system to a big tree.

P1. Climb the left side of a wedged flake then climb up the outside of a huge flake to a good ledge at its top (8, 90 feet).

P2. From the far left (west) end of the ledge, pull up and left into a shallow, left-facing dihedral (9 s) and clip a bolt. Follow the scalloped dihedral past 2 more bolts and a fixed pin to a left-leaning roof/dihedral. Lieback the dihedral and belay at its top beneath a second left-leaning roof/dihedral (10a, 90 feet).

P3. Climb the second roof/dihedral through an apex, stay left and belay at a horn in a crack that goes straight up the wall (10b, 70 feet).

P4. Follow the crack to the top of the wall where it veers right to join Ripsaw (9, 90 feet).

Rappel Ripsaw (2 X 100 feet) and down-climb the initial slab (class 4) or climb a short way higher to the top of the first pinnacle on the Northeast Ridge and continue with Ripsaw.

Location 

Hike the Solitude Lake Trail to Shelf Lake. Just before reaching the east end of Solitude Lake, hike talus to a high point on the shoulder of the Northeast Ridge. Climb the initial slab of Ripsaw for about 60 feet then break left around the crest, descend a short way and continue across a ledge to a big tree.

This point can also be reached from Black Lake. Approach as for the South Face routes. Break right where the terrain seems to beckon then traverse a long way right across talus until it is obvious to scramble up a gully to the ledge with the big tree.

Protection 

Full rack from thin to 3 inches. Pitch 2 has 3 bolts and a fixed pin, but this is no sport climb.


Photos of Sidewinder Slideshow Add Photo
View looking down pitch 2 from the belay on the FA, 10 September 2008.
BETA PHOTO: View looking down pitch 2 from the belay on the FA...
Arrowhead, Lower NE Ridge showing the routes Ripsaw and Sidewinder.  View is from the south.
BETA PHOTO: Arrowhead, Lower NE Ridge showing the routes Ripsa...
View up the great finger crack of Picth 4 from the belay, 10 September 2008.  The crack on the right is the third pitch of Ripsaw.
View up the great finger crack of Picth 4 from the...
This LA piton lies between the second and third bolts on pitch two of Sidewinder.  A green Alien can be placed just below the pin. I set out to lead this pitch without any fixed gear and was turned back after making fairly committing moves into the scalloped dihedral.  The "crack" I had envisioned turned out to be a seam for most of its length.
BETA PHOTO: This LA piton lies between the second and third bo...

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