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(05) The Open Face Wall
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Learning to Lead Crack T 
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Rueben S 
Sideshow Rodeo S 
Tuna Melt S 

Sideshow Rodeo 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: EB Scott Halliday, FA: Anthony Stout (2007)
Page Views: 144
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on May 19, 2008

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Description 

Start up steep rock of dubious quality (stickclip recommended) to the first bolt. Traverse left and up slightly passing the second bolt with a cool move. Passing the third bolt the crux is encountered a big dyno between good holds. Clip the 4th bolt and an easier crux is encountered a deadpoint to a mantle on sandy sloper holds. From here a nice rest is encountered than the next challenge is finding the achors, pull over the final lip and clip the anchors on top of the cliff.

With some trickery the big dyno can be avoided which may drop the grade a bit.

This route is incorrectly called "Heave Ho" in the rock climbing New Mexico guide.

Location 

At the far right side of the Open Face Wall. Look for what is probably the steepest climb at Mentmore. The is tough to spot from the road as it faces parallel to the road.

Route is marked as #17 "Project" on the topo at the New Side intro page.

Protection 

4 Bolts to unusually placed anchors. Plan on walking up to retrieve your draws at the end of the day. Stickclip


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