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Mustache Wall
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Sidecar 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Calder, Marty Lewis, 8/2006
Season: all but maybe winter
Page Views: 303
Submitted By: slim on Jul 12, 2011
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Description 

Climb the first pitch of 'Supergrinder' and belay at the bolts (or link into Sidecar).

From the anchor bolts climb straight up into a slightly flared offset/dihedral tight finger crack. Just a little bit tricky/insecure for a moment. Continue upwards as the crack gets a little bit wider (bigger fingers with a few tight hands), with a deeper flare. This is more straight forward, but maybe a little more blue collar. Bolted anchor at the top.

The bishop guidebook gives this 10c, but we thought it was closer to 10a. Well protected and fine position up on the wall. Very worth doing!


Location 

This route is pretty much directly above the first pitch of 'Supergrinder'. You can't miss it - it is a nice looking crack.


Protection 

Small TCU's to maybe hand-sized cams. A few stoppers, several runners. Nothing too big.



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By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I would disagree with slim on this one. Definitely not 10a, more like 10+. For me - moving into the flare required some techy foot jams while lie backing the left side of the flare.