Side Tracked  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Josh Mucci and Jeff Scheuerell New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Jeff Scheuerell on Apr 26, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Side Tracked 

So far there are 4 pitches to this route but the plan is to cotinue up another pitch or two. The first 2 are fairly easy and can be linked with a 60m rope. Climb the jumbled buttress right of the giant corner, 30' rigth of Simon the Dog, same start as Wretched in Stone, to a flat ledge. There are now bolts here. From the ledge work up and left into a big Chimney(Wretched in Stone). Once in the chimney keep your eye out for a bolt up and rigth. Climb to then past the bolt then move rigth to another bolt and continue right to a big ledge with a bolted anchor. P3 the fun begins, traverses right into an obvious left facing corner. The corner starts out wide (optional #5 Camalot) then turns to a #3Camolot size crack for a ways then narrows to tight hands and fingers. Before the crack ends step out of the corner to the rigth and clip a bolt that protects 5.10ish climbing into dicontinuous cracks that lead to a sloping ledge (#2Camolot here)and a bolted anchor a bit farther left. P4 moves right to a thin finger crack that angles sharply right. Follow the crack(very fun) to its end. From it's end climb past a bolt, a pin and two more bolts. The crux is at the last bolt. After passing the bolt sling a small horn and search for a gear placement to protect your second(I was able to get an ok offset nut and a red C3), before traversing right to the, for now, last bolted anchor. 2 rope rap down and right a bit to Tweet this, then 1 rope to the base of Tweet and another down or 2 ropes down. Fun to tr Tweet This.